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Routes in The Gold Wall

Ice Cream Dreams, AKA Acid Test Crack T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
After the Gold Rush T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
An Uncertain Violence T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
AuH2O T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Black and Sassy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cactus Thieves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
East Of Eden T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Facial Distortions T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Gold Finger T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Golden Boy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Goldilox T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Grievous Angel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hatchet T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Helter Skelter T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
King Fissure T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Liquid Sky TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pacing the Cage T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Rushin' Arete T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Serpent, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Standard Fork's 5.8 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Supercrack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
T.L. Bush T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Tres Osos T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Waterslip Down T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Worth The Weight T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
X-it T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: FA Unknown FFA J.Snyder et. al.
Page Views: 794 total · 23/month
Shared By: J. Snyder on Apr 29, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Worth The Weight is a tenuous and at times exciting modern test of Paradise Forks basalt skills. Unlikely footwork and exciting but defined power cruxes make up the first half of the route, enduro locker crack climbing will take you to the top.

Referenced in "Paradise Forks Rock Climbing" by David Bloom as one of the two 5.11 A1 routes on The Gold Wall. At some point J.Mattson climbed the left seem creating Pacing The Cage but the right seem remained un-freed. Eventually the initial seem was used to access The Serpent but the Freedom Project just sat in waiting.

Location

Worth The Weight is thin and at times non-existent crack system just to the right of Pacing The Cage. The seem boulder problem will be obvious from top of Aqualung. Start on the twin seem stem box of Pacing The Cage. From the no hands ledge bust into the initial seem offset of The Serpent. Before you move up into The Serpent take improbable moves left and into the A1 boulder problems.

Protection

Thin Cams
Sliders helpful for the crux (Blue BallNut)
Varied thin fingers to the top
Nuts
Runners

Photos

Even with a bit of rehearsing, that is an impressive lead on some damn fine thing corner, can you even get a tip in there, rock.
Way to maintain the tradition out there. Nov 25, 2015
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Congrats Jeff! Apr 30, 2015
J. Snyder
Flagstaff, Arizona
 
J. Snyder   Flagstaff, Arizona
 
Like most projects the process wouldn't be possible without a girlfriend, supportive friends and bored belayers. The Freedom Project was a up and down process that eventually lead me to one of my most challenging but rewarding leads.

Because of the specific nature of the crux gear and the lurking traverse difficulty I gladly worked out the moves on toprope before working up the courage to lead. The difficulty will depend on how many laps you can run on the other J.Mattson Forks moderates next door... Apr 29, 2015

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