Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, TR, 100 ft|
|FA:||?-Top rope-either Dick Cilley or Tim Toula/FFA-David Bloom|
|Page Views:||414 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||Floater Bloom on Sep 5, 2014|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
DescriptionThis route has been an existing top rope since the mid 80's. Lack of protection and a predominance of face climbing deterred a lead red point. After much contemplation I decided the route was worthy enough to place a single baby angle pin to keep a leader off the ledge. The pro right after the pin is not exactly bomber either.This is a very unusual route for the Forks in that it flows like a sport route but requires a cool trad head.
LocationSame chossy crack start as Emotions in Motion, which is just right of East of Eden.From the ledge 20' up climb a super thin crack system in a mini dihedral off the right side of the ledge. There is a piton 10' above the ledge. Rap in from the Ansel Adams Juniper at the top of Gold Wall.
ProtectionThe pro is reasonable through the crux, the piton, a small wiggly nut and finally a bomber 0.4 camalot after the crux move 20' over the ledge. After that one exits the dihedral and face climbs on awesome black edges to the right. After this exciting bit you finally arrive at another bomber 0.4 camalot.A few bouldery moves up and left and you join Emotions briefly before a final climactic finish on the shattered headwall below the Ansel Adams juniper. This route is quite a journey.
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