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Routes in The Gold Wall

Ice Cream Dreams, AKA Acid Test Crack T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
After the Gold Rush T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
An Uncertain Violence T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
AuH2O T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Black and Sassy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cactus Thieves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
East Of Eden T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Facial Distortions T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Gold Finger T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Golden Boy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Goldilox T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Grievous Angel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hatchet T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Helter Skelter T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
King Fissure T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Liquid Sky TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pacing the Cage T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Rushin' Arete T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Serpent, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Standard Fork's 5.8 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Supercrack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
T.L. Bush T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Tres Osos T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Waterslip Down T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Worth The Weight T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
X-it T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft
FA: ?-Top rope-either Dick Cilley or Tim Toula/FFA-David Bloom
Page Views: 414 total · 10/month
Shared By: Floater Bloom on Sep 5, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

This route has been an existing top rope since the mid 80's. Lack of protection and a predominance of face climbing deterred a lead red point. After much contemplation I decided the route was worthy enough to place a single baby angle pin to keep a leader off the ledge. The pro right after the pin is not exactly bomber either.This is a very unusual route for the Forks in that it flows like a sport route but requires a cool trad head.

Location

Same chossy crack start as Emotions in Motion, which is just right of East of Eden.From the ledge 20' up climb a super thin crack system in a mini dihedral off the right side of the ledge. There is a piton 10' above the ledge. Rap in from the Ansel Adams Juniper at the top of Gold Wall.

Protection

The pro is reasonable through the crux, the piton, a small wiggly nut and finally a bomber 0.4 camalot after the crux move 20' over the ledge. After that one exits the dihedral and face climbs on awesome black edges to the right. After this exciting bit you finally arrive at another bomber 0.4 camalot.A few bouldery moves up and left and you join Emotions briefly before a final climactic finish on the shattered headwall below the Ansel Adams juniper. This route is quite a journey.

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