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Routes in The Gold Wall

Ice Cream Dreams, AKA Acid Test Crack T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
After the Gold Rush T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
An Uncertain Violence T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
AuH2O T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Black and Sassy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cactus Thieves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
East Of Eden T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Facial Distortions T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Gold Finger T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Golden Boy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Goldilox T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Grievous Angel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hatchet T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Helter Skelter T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
King Fissure T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Liquid Sky TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pacing the Cage T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Rushin' Arete T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Serpent, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Standard Fork's 5.8 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Supercrack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
T.L. Bush T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Tres Osos T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Waterslip Down T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Worth The Weight T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
X-it T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
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Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft
FA: ?-Top rope-either Dick Cilley or Tim Toula/FFA-David Bloom
Page Views: 446 total · 10/month
Shared By: Floater Bloom on Sep 5, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Access Issue: Stage II Fire Restrictions and Closures in Place as of 8:00 AM May 23 Details

Description [Edit]

This route has been an existing top rope since the mid 80's. Lack of protection and a predominance of face climbing deterred a lead red point. After much contemplation I decided the route was worthy enough to place a single baby angle pin to keep a leader off the ledge. The pro right after the pin is not exactly bomber either.This is a very unusual route for the Forks in that it flows like a sport route but requires a cool trad head.

Location [Edit]

Same chossy crack start as Emotions in Motion, which is just right of East of Eden.From the ledge 20' up climb a super thin crack system in a mini dihedral off the right side of the ledge. There is a piton 10' above the ledge. Rap in from the Ansel Adams Juniper at the top of Gold Wall.

Protection [Edit]

The pro is reasonable through the crux, the piton, a small wiggly nut and finally a bomber 0.4 camalot after the crux move 20' over the ledge. After that one exits the dihedral and face climbs on awesome black edges to the right. After this exciting bit you finally arrive at another bomber 0.4 camalot.A few bouldery moves up and left and you join Emotions briefly before a final climactic finish on the shattered headwall below the Ansel Adams juniper. This route is quite a journey.

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I agree this route is a journey. Though there is generally good gear, I can't recommend a ground up approach due to the frequently dirty nature of the route. I found it with a generous layer of silt/dirt on the crux corner and especially the face section that follows. The dirtiness (which I assume will never relent due to the erosion on top and infrequent ascents) makes the gear difficult to place and the holds much worse than they really are. In terms of specific gear, I found the pin to be rather wobbly, but I was able to back up the "wiggly nut" with a good yellow C3. I placed a 3 C4 at the start, but then placed stuff from 0.5 C4 and smaller the rest of the way. This is a fun route, but maybe only worth doing once you've started to run out of new stuff. May 13, 2018

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