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Routes in (4) Star Wall

Asteroid Dust (Morning Star Extension) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cry of the Gerbil S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dark Star T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Daytime Drama S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Johnny and the Mellonheads T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Last Days T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left Wing T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lethal Dose T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Levitate T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mantra T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mantra Extension T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Morning Star T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Neutron Star T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
St. Paddee's Day T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tim S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Turning Point T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 648 total, 5/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on Jul 10, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

Technical and varied climbing on a column past eight bolts leads to the upper crack section of Morning Star. The crux comes between bolt #3 and #4. Reaching bolt #8 is somewhat contrived because you have to consciously avoid using the Morning Star crack on your right. The climbing quality, however, is excellent.

Location

The bolted column adjacent to Morning Star on the Star Wall.

Protection

QD's and optional gear to 0.5" for the upper crack portion of Morning Star. Beefy chain anchors are at the top.

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Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
  5.11d
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
  5.11d
Best 11d at Smith. Jun 6, 2017
danieljordan
Portland, OR
danieljordan   Portland, OR
In my opinion, one of the coolest 12- routes in the park. I can see how one would think it's a bit contrived - but like someone mentioned earlier, there is a really fun sequence pulling over that last bulge to get to the last bolt. Flawless rock. Sep 15, 2016
I agree this route deserves a 5.12a rating. Excellent climbing on perfect stone. Aug 18, 2015
Brett Yost
Bend, Oregon
  5.12a
Brett Yost   Bend, Oregon
  5.12a
This was rated 12a by the FA and I think that is pretty spot on.
The upper line does get close to Morning Star but that didn't detract for me. There is a nice sequence of moves that stay in a natural line and distinct from Morning Star and go at a grade very consistent with the rest of the climb.

Fun, long, great rock. I'd give it 3.5 stars. Mar 1, 2015
Lurker
Verdi, NV
  5.11d
Lurker   Verdi, NV  
  5.11d
Last 2 bolts are pretty contrived...line of weakness is to finish up Morning Star. Really excellent climbing otherwise. Apr 5, 2013