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Routes in (4) Star Wall

Asteroid Dust (Morning Star Extension) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cry of the Gerbil S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dark Star T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Daytime Drama S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Johnny and the Mellonheads T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Last Days T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left Wing T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lethal Dose T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Levitate T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mantra T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mantra Extension T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Morning Star T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Neutron Star T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
St. Paddee's Day T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tim S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Turning Point T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Chuck Buzzard, 1984
Page Views: 104 total, 1/month
Shared By: ferrells on May 24, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

A great route with solid gear. Most of the route is simple laybacking, jamming, and jug hauling, with only a few tricky moves at the start.

Watts recommends moving right to anchors, but the anchors to the left worked for us, and were chains instead of ratty slings. Also, we had the chance to tr Levitate, which is worth a few minutes of your time.

Location

Left of Little Wing, and right of Levitate in the Star Wall area. Perhaps most recognizable for the heavily chalked triangular-blocky hold about ten or fifteen feet up in the corner.

Protection

Mostly thin gear, but there are a couple spots for cams up to 1 - 1.5". Overprotect the start: it's the crux, and it would be easy to botch and groundfall without careful gear placement.

Photos

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
Fun route, with interesting laybacking through two sections.

The pro at the start is definitely a bit weird, but sfew. I put a yellow alien the first flared pocket. A small step up and I got a perfect HB offset (#6 I think) in the pinch. Then all good from there.

Route doesn't take anything bigger than a #1 camalot (I placed two)... but it does take as many red camalots/orange mastercams as you can throw at it. May 19, 2011