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Routes in (4) Star Wall

Asteroid Dust (Morning Star Extension) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cry of the Gerbil S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dark Star T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Daytime Drama S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Johnny and the Mellonheads T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Last Days T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left Wing T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lethal Dose T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Levitate T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mantra T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Mantra Extension T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Morning Star T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Neutron Star T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
St. Paddee's Day T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tim S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Turning Point T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 724 total · 10/month
Shared By: Blake Allen Green on May 29, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description [Suggest Change]

Awesome gorge climbing, a typical "innie" between Dark Star and Morning Star. Begin with funky stem/smear moves and a high hand-foot match protected by small gear to a good stance on a rail. Clip the first pin, breath, and fight crimps, locks, and smears to a slopy block at the bolt. Finesse and power your way through a deadpoint crux and play find the kneebar. Clip three more pins as you fight through technical smears and awkward bulging slots. Try to catch your breath at the last pin before a flared handjam and sidepull sequence gives way to easier climbing.

Location [Suggest Change]

Count two corners right of Morning Star, or two corners left of Cry of the Gerbil. Start on a block that rises to chest height.

Protection [Suggest Change]

All the old fixed pins have been replaced, making the pro much more inspiring than before. 00 thru 2 metolius and a half dozen quickdraws should do it.

Photos

Jon Rhoderick
Redmond, OR
  5.12a
Jon Rhoderick   Redmond, OR
  5.12a
All fixed gear has been replaced with new bolts. Go for it! Sep 16, 2014
CritConrad
Bend, OR
  5.12a
CritConrad   Bend, OR
  5.12a
Gear beta alert. Make sure your gear in between the first and 2nd bolts is good, the crack is quite flaring but I was able to fidget two pieces in that feature. Also, a green C3 and a blue ball nut protect the final moves quite well. May 22, 2017

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