Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 774 total · 10/month
Shared By: Blake Allen Green on May 29, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

Awesome gorge climbing, a typical "innie" between Dark Star and Morning Star. Begin with funky stem/smear moves and a high hand-foot match protected by small gear to a good stance on a rail. Clip the first pin, breath, and fight crimps, locks, and smears to a slopy block at the bolt. Finesse and power your way through a deadpoint crux and play find the kneebar. Clip three more pins as you fight through technical smears and awkward bulging slots. Try to catch your breath at the last pin before a flared handjam and sidepull sequence gives way to easier climbing.

Location

Count two corners right of Morning Star, or two corners left of Cry of the Gerbil. Start on a block that rises to chest height.

Protection

All the old fixed pins have been replaced, making the pro much more inspiring than before. 00 thru 2 metolius and a half dozen quickdraws should do it.

Photos

Jon Rhoderick
Redmond, OR
  5.12a
Jon Rhoderick   Redmond, OR
  5.12a
All fixed gear has been replaced with new bolts. Go for it! Sep 16, 2014
CritConrad
Bend, OR
  5.12a
CritConrad   Bend, OR
  5.12a
Gear beta alert. Make sure your gear in between the first and 2nd bolts is good, the crack is quite flaring but I was able to fidget two pieces in that feature. Also, a green C3 and a blue ball nut protect the final moves quite well. May 22, 2017