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Routes in (4) Star Wall

Asteroid Dust (Morning Star Extension) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cry of the Gerbil S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dark Star T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Daytime Drama S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Johnny and the Mellonheads T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Last Days T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left Wing T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lethal Dose T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Levitate T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mantra T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mantra Extension T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Morning Star T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Neutron Star T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
St. Paddee's Day T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tim S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Turning Point T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Kent Benesch
Page Views: 197 total, 7/month
Shared By: kent benesch on Jul 27, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

The crux comes at mid height with some typical hard gorge stemming.

Location

Left of Freon (5.10a trad route on the star wall) Furthest left sport route

Protection

13 bolts and fixed anchor.

Photos

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Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
 
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
 
Fun route! It was a little dusty today and I suspect some of the holds won't last the test of time, but overall it was super enjoyable movement on mostly good rock. For the most part, the holds are a lot more positive than many of the other LG 5.12s.

There's an optional finger sized placement somewhere in the first few bolts, but its super unnecessary. (basically you pull into a great stance and have to do 2 more easy moves to the next bolt that could be protected with a yellow alien-ish sized cam.

Up high there's a large flake that I pulled pretty hard on that seems like it'll come off in the not too distant future. Definitely worth keeping an eye on.

Go climb this thing and help clean it up! Jun 28, 2017