Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Forrest Kaye
Page Views: 383 total · 7/month
Shared By: ForrestKaye on Aug 11, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Extension for Morning Star. Continue up to the right past the Morning Star anchors. Follow a thin crack for 15 ft then traverse left and up through the final steep section. Easier climbing to a large ledge just below the rim. Use a 70 m rope to lower to the ground. Tie a knot in the end of the rope a 70 just reaches. (planning on moving the anchors down lower at some point....)

Location

Lower with 70m rope or two raps with 60m using Morning Star anchor as intermediate.

Protection

I added 3 bolts to the route. It seemed like a needed enhancement. Still bring .5 to protect the last move if the bolt just down the right of of you is too far away. Also a # 1 or 2 BD cam will protect the easy 5.7 scramble to the anchors.

If you want to do it all trad: Bring small nuts and cams to protect the lower section, a .5 purple BD fits nicely as you pull the last bulge at the crux.

Photos

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Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
 
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
 
When Forrest says "70m just reaches" he really means it. Standing on the highest pedestal, both ends of a 70 hang at eye-height, and I'm 6'1"! Be very careful! Oct 11, 2014
James E King
Bend, OR
James E King   Bend, OR
I second Matt's comment. We were using a rope that is technically 72 meters long and it still fell a few feet short. Having said that, there's no reason not to climb the route. Apr 12, 2015
ForrestKaye
  5.10d
ForrestKaye  
  5.10d
Added 3 bolts to the route and lowered the anchors. Jul 26, 2015