Avg: 2.4 from 49 votes
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Tom Cecil, Mark Miner|
|Page Views:||5,293 total · 37/month|
|Shared By:||rockratrei on Jun 27, 2006|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionThis is a good quality line. The rock is mostly solid and the climbing is mostly moderate. However, it does "flare" up at two distinct cruxes. The second and succeeding belays have bolted anchors that would allow retreat with a single 60-meter rope. It MIGHT be possible to rappel from the pitch-2 anchors slightly right to reach a bolted station at the top of Corona, and go from there to the ground.
Pitch 1: A pleasant crack leads up 100' to a small stance beneath an overhang.
Pitch 2: Traverse right to a break in the roof and move up past a bolt (5.10) to easier climbing and a bolted belay station.
Pitch 3: Easy climbing up the corner above takes you to another bolted belay station.
Pitch 4: Continue up, passing a protection bolt (5.9) on the bulge above, to reach another bolted station.
Pitch 5: Moderate climbing goes up the cracks and face to the Lower Shoulder. There is an optional bolted belay/rap station a short distance below the shoulder.
Descend by rappeling the route. All the upper pitches can be rapped with one rope (which is probably advisable because there are a lot of snaggy horns). There is not a bolted station at the top of pitch one, so it easiest to do a 2-rope rappel from the P2 anchors.