Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Tom Cecil, Mark Miner
Page Views: 7,290 total · 43/month
Shared By: rockratrei on Jun 27, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This is a good quality line. The rock is mostly solid and the climbing is mostly moderate. However, it does "flare" up at two distinct cruxes. The second and succeeding belays have bolted anchors that would allow retreat with a single 60-meter rope. It MIGHT be possible to rappel from the pitch-2 anchors slightly right to reach a bolted station at the top of Corona, and go from there to the ground.

Pitch 1: A pleasant crack leads up 100' to a small stance beneath an overhang.
Pitch 2: Traverse right to a break in the roof and move up past a bolt (5.10) to easier climbing and a bolted belay station.
Pitch 3: Easy climbing up the corner above takes you to another bolted belay station.
Pitch 4: Continue up, passing a protection bolt (5.9) on the bulge above, to reach another bolted station.
Pitch 5: Moderate climbing goes up the cracks and face to the Lower Shoulder. There is an optional bolted belay/rap station a short distance below the shoulder.

Descend by rappeling the route. All the upper pitches can be rapped with one rope (which is probably advisable because there are a lot of snaggy horns). There is not a bolted station at the top of pitch one, so it easiest to do a 2-rope rappel from the P2 anchors.

Location

Start in the obvious corner about 10 yards to the right of the brushy alcove at the bottom of Sunspot Ridge.

Protection

standard rack

Photos