Type: Trad, 1500 ft, 12 pitches, Grade III
FA: FRA: Anthony Anagnostou, Karsten Duncan, John Campbell, Larry DeAngelo
Page Views: 7,914 total · 51/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Apr 23, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


This is a wonderful sleeper of a route. Probably lots of folks have looked up at it and thought, "looks like a miserable gully slog-- no way it could be good." Surprise!

About 100 yards to the left of Beulah's Book is an indistinct buttress leading up to the left side of a huge roof. The buttress is bordered on its left side by a brushy, unappealing gully. Start at the very toe of this buttress.

Pitch 1: Pleasant face climbing leads up to a right-slanting crack. Belay at its top.

Pitch 2: Step right and climb over a slight bulge, then face climb straight up staying near the junction of the white and dark rock. Belay on a ledge to the left. (Just left of this ledge is a rap station on a tree in the gully; one long rappel, down and west, reaches the ground near the start of Dubious Flirtations.) Note also that there is an off route bolt a little to the right of the beginning of this pitch, presumably as part of a variation start.

Pitch 3: Step right and continue up a small dihedral. Belay at a small stance with shrubbery and a chimney above.

Pitch 4: Move up the dihedral past an annoying bush and into a featured squeeze chimney. Climb this chimney to a wide clean gully and continue up to another wide gully/chimney to another stance by a large chockstone.

Pitch 5: Climb out of the gully onto the arete and face on the left side of the slot, then up and out onto slab. Move up until reaching a ledge approximately even with the large Solar Slab Terrace. (An easy traverse right at this point gives access to the Terrace and the routes continuing there.)

Pitch 6: Continue straight up the rounded buttress above on pleasant slab climbing. A very long pitch (60m+?) leads to a good belay ledge at a pine tree. (Alternatively, divide the pitch in two by belaying at a varnished scoop.)

Pitch 7: Climb up and slightly right on even more pleasant slabs until reaching a large brushy ledge.

At this point you can scramble right (class 3) for 100 feet, passing the top of Going Nuts, and join Solar Slab two pitches above the terrace. Alternatively, and more direct, continue up over broken rock (better on the right) and join Sunspot Ridge at The Notch. Continue to the top by one of these routes, and descend as for Solar Slab.


Standard rack
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Dang you, Scary Larry! You put up new routes faster than we can climb them! Apr 26, 2006
5.7? ya' mean, like, y'know, 'old-school' 5.7? or just 'new route' 5.7? most of the route is downright friendly, but i seem to recall a couple spicy moves on p2 and p4.

btw- that chockstone at the top of p4 is precarious and big. May 1, 2006
Larry DeAngelo
Las Vegas, NV
Larry DeAngelo   Las Vegas, NV  
Well, yeah-- the chimney on p4 probably fits into the "old-school" 5.7 category... May 1, 2006
Jason D. Martin
Jason D. Martin  
I would probably give the chimney pitch 5.7+.

This is a great route, but it needs a little pruning here and there...

Jason Dec 21, 2006
Bill Gibbs
Wichita, Ks.
  5.7 PG13
Bill Gibbs   Wichita, Ks.
  5.7 PG13
Name change in order..."Bush Series". I would actually say a lot of pruning is in order. There was just as much bushwacking on the climb as there was getting to the climb. There was also poor rock on the runout pitch 4 wide chimney/gully so watch out and check every hand and foot hold. It was easy 5th class climbing but if you aren't comfortable running it out for 30'+ with decking a certainty, then I'd suggest you find a safer climb. I personally had two foot holds and one hand hold break in that pitch alone, and I was knocking on every hold. Definitely not the quality route as being suggested here. I'll give it one star just because of what my partner said as we were hiking out...A safe day on a bad climb is better than a good day at work any time. Oct 7, 2007
Las Vegas, NV
  5.7 PG13
J W   Las Vegas, NV
  5.7 PG13
climbed the upper pitches off of Solar Slab's terrace today with Larry- really nice on the last two pitches, cant say anything about the lower ones. We added a direct finish today by connecting this route to Sunspot via a single pitch of say....5.7ish climbing with some rock quality issues up high. Pro is good enough. Jan 19, 2008
A really fun route with enough variety to keep you going; worth doing for sure! Feb 20, 2008
Ben Townsend  
Doing the first five pitches, then traversing to the terrace and rapping the Solar Slab gully, turned out to be a great low-key, low-logistics outing for a short November day. We had sun all day except for a period of about 20 minutes when it briefly went behind the summit of Mt. Wilson.

Judging by the comments above, the route must have cleaned up a bit. The bushes have clearly been tamed, and we encountered no more loose rock than normal for any less-travelled Red Rock route.

P1-2: 180', 5.6-5.7. We ran these two together, which seemed to make sense. Really nice.

P3: 75', 5.7-. Fun climbing; looked like we could have found easier ground by stepping just a few feet right.

P4: 150', 5.7. Forty feet of hilariously awkward but totally secure squeeze chimneying, then easier ground up to the big chockstones.

P5: 150', 5.6. Straight up the super-featured varnish on the left wall of the chimney, then a long wide-open slab to a great belay ledge. If it weren't so exposed, you could probably unrope here and scramble over to the terrace, but we did it as another pitch.

We took a standard rack to #4 and had no issues with the gear. The #4 may not be strictly necessary, but it's good for a couple of spots, including a perfect placement at the entrance to the squeeze chimney. Nov 24, 2014
Flava Flav
Kirkland, Washington
Flava Flav   Kirkland, Washington
I think a good definition of "Old School" is that the rock is telling you how it's going to go, instead of the other way around!

P1-3 Classic Red Rock face climbing
P4 Well protected moved into chimney, fun!
P5 Onto ArĂȘte, changing gears again! Nice and bold slab. Should have slung that huge block, would have avoided the 20+ ft run out above thin gear. Belated in scoop on right in plates with a #6 nut, 0 And 000 C3's.
P6-7?195 ft up more slab and up to a awesome belay corner
P8 scramble/climb up low angle giant huecos and right to a pine tree. Tree currently has black and red cord, tied with two separate rap rings. 180ft rappel from here to terrace. You might be able to rap w a 70m here and to the left and down climb some 3-4th class crack.

Super adventurous day!

Mar 20, 2015
John Sirois
Bozeman, MT
John Sirois   Bozeman, MT
Thanks Larry and company, this was great. Linked to Sunspot Ridge and Solar Slab for a great outing. The p4 chimney/roof is just excellent, great exposure but completely solid if you keep your head together. I think the bush is overly maligned - it adds character. In my mind this is the quintessential Red Rock moderate for the prepared. Dec 19, 2016