Type: Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 7 pitches, Grade III
GPS: 36.10333, -115.48677
FA: FRA: Anthony Anagnostou, Karsten Duncan, John Campbell, Larry DeAngelo
Page Views: 12,561 total · 51/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Apr 23, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Description Suggest change

This is a wonderful sleeper of a route. Probably lots of folks have looked up at it and thought, "looks like a miserable gully slog-- no way it could be good." Surprise!

About 100 yards to the left of Beulah's Book is an indistinct buttress leading up to the left side of a huge roof. The buttress is bordered on its left side by a brushy, unappealing gully. Start at the very toe of this buttress.

Pitch 1: Pleasant face climbing leads up to a right-slanting crack. Belay at its top.

Pitch 2: Step right and climb over a slight bulge, then face climb straight up staying near the junction of the white and dark rock. Belay on a ledge to the left. (Just left of this ledge is a rap station on a tree in the gully; one long rappel, down and west, reaches the ground near the start of Dubious Flirtations.) Note also that there is an off route bolt a little to the right of the beginning of this pitch, presumably as part of a variation start.

Pitch 3: Step right and continue up a small dihedral. Belay at a small stance with shrubbery and a chimney above.

Pitch 4: Move up past a bush to a featured squeeze chimney. Climb the chimney and build the belay in the vegetated alcove above.

Pitch 5: This is a long 60m+ pitch. Climb left out of the alcove on the arete/face, ascend the gully on the left side before moving left onto slab. Climb until reaching a ledge approximately even with the large Solar Slab Terrace. (An easy traverse pitch to the right gains access to the Solar Slab Terrace and the routes that start up from there. Additionally, a party can traverse right to the Solar Slab Terrace to gain access to the Solar Slab decent gully rappels.)

Pitch 6: Continue straight up the rounded buttress above on pleasant slab climbing. A very long pitch (60m+?) leads to a good belay ledge at a pine tree. (Alternatively, divide the pitch in two by belaying at a varnished scoop.)

Pitch 7: Climb up and slightly right on even more pleasant slabs until reaching a large brushy ledge.

At this point you can scramble right (class 3) for 100 feet, passing the top of Going Nuts, and join Solar Slab two pitches above the terrace. The anchor is on the face and is easy to get to. From here rappel down Solar Slab with a 70m rope or continue climbing up Solar Slab.

Alternatively, and more direct, continue up over broken rock (better on the right) and join Sunspot Ridge at The Notch. Continue to the top by one of these routes, and descend as for Solar Slab.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack

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