Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,960 total · 41/month
Shared By: William Thiry on Apr 19, 2017 · Updates
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Good climb, best done as three pitches. Comparable in quality, difficulty and length to Johnny Vegas, this is a great way to achieve the Solar Slab Terrace.

P1: Climb the narrow face just left of the corner / chimney of Beulah's Book's 1st pitch. There is 1 bolt about 55 feet up. Continue another 55 feet to a ledge system and build a gear anchor. This pitch protects well enough with small cams (bring doubles up to .5") 5.6, 110'.

P2: Climb the left side of the face above to the 1st bolt 15 feet up, then climb the arete to a 2nd bolt 30 feet up, and yet a 3rd bolt 60 feet up. Climb 30 more feet to a nice ledge with a 2-bolt anchor. Clip one of these bolts (skip this belay), climb up left to another bolt, then angle up and right for 40 feet through a section of cobbled varnish to the 2-bolt belay at the top of Beulah's Book pitch 2. Gear including stoppers and cams up to 3" protect this pitch very well. This is an excellent pitch: exposed, mostly good rock, and super fun climbing. 5.7 135 feet.

P3: Clip a bolt 5 feet up and left of the anchor, then climb the slab up and right for a full 60-meters. The first 20 feet are unprotected except for the bolt and may feel 5.6. After that the climbing eases and gear opportunities become more apparent. Keep an eye out for the 2 sets of bolted anchors above Johnny Vegas. The lower set is at a good belay stance and can easily be reached with a 60-meter rope. The upper anchor is about 40 feet higher and can be reached with a 70-meter or 'long' 60-meter rope.

With a 60-meter rope you can rap Beulah's Book from the top of it's pitch 2 in 2 raps with a little easy downclimbing at the end of each rap (tie knots in the ends of rope). With a 70-meter rope rapping is a cinch.

Location Suggest change

Arête face, left of the classic dihedral

Protection Suggest change

Some cams, nuts, and spaced quickdraws

Photos

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