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Routes in Solar Slab - Lower Tier

Arete left of Beulah's Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Beulah's Book T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Certain Air T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Corona T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dubious Flirtations T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Frieda's Flake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Horndog T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Johnny Vegas T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sandstone Overcast T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Solar Flare T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Solar Slab Gully T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,124 total, 20/month
Shared By: Andrew Carson on Jan 9, 2009
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This enjoyable route offers a chimney pitch with an awkward narrow crux near the top, before reaching a comfortable belay ledge outside the chimney. Another pitch leads up the crack that is a continuation of the chimney, then out right onto the face and up steep enjoyable climbing to the last pitch of Johnny Vegas, which is the most natural finish. Though Handren's guide describes this route as a two pitch climb, you'd really have to stretch it out to do it that way, and three pitches seemed more comfortable.

Location

Frieda's Flake is a conspicuous white pillar or flake between Johnny Vegas and the base of the Solar Slab Gully. The route climbs the right side of the pillar. Scramble 4th class from the bottom of SSG area up into an alcove at the base of the chimney. Descent options from the Solar Slab Terrace are well known.

Protection

Standard rack to 4". Having a big cam (#3 or #4) for the crux is handy, but not absolutely mandatory. Pro options are good throughout if you look around.

Photos

Flavaflav
Las Vegas, NV
 
Flavaflav   Las Vegas, NV
 
Save #4 for second crux, it's more confusing than the first. Feb 7, 2016
Royal
Santa Rosa, CA
 
Royal   Santa Rosa, CA
 
Good route but go into it knowing that is is by far and away the trickiest to figure out on this wall. It's not a no fall zone like the friar, but you have to do some head scratching for sure. Feb 6, 2016
Sherri Lewis
Sequim, WA
 
Sherri Lewis   Sequim, WA
 
P1 is full-value with beautiful rock and plenty of moves at the grade. Some technical stemming and cool roof sequences make this pitch a more engaging line than a few of its neighbors.

We took doubles to #4 but probably could have gotten by with a single #4 as there are smaller cracks on the sides which can be used for pro. If you only take a single #4, save it for the beginning of the crux.

We belayed on the first comfy ledge above the end of the chimney slot and broke the climb into three pitches. That first belay takes #2's and #3's. Mar 19, 2013
Tom Fralich
Fort Collins, CO
  5.9
Tom Fralich   Fort Collins, CO
  5.9
A good option for reaching routes on the Upper Slab for those who've done Beulah's and Johnny Vegas already. Pro is there where you need it. I used two #4's. Jan 23, 2011