Avg: 2.1 from 8 votes
Routes in Solar Slab - Lower Tier
|Arete left of Beulah's Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Beulah's Book T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Certain Air T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Corona T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Dubious Flirtations T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Frieda's Flake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Horndog T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Johnny Vegas T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Sandstone Overcast T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1|
|Solar Flare T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Solar Slab Gully T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 550 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||FRA: Larry DeAngelo, John Wilder|
|Page Views:||1,632 total, 10/month|
|Shared By:||John Wilder on Jan 22, 2005|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionThis route is something that Larry had been eyeing for a while, well, he had mostly been eyeing the giant roof just up and left from the top of Pitch 2 of Johnny Vegas. Now all we had to do was find a way up there. Larry had heard of a route between Johnny Vegas and Beulah's Book that may offer passage to the route- which it did, with a slight variation.
Pitch 1: Start in a right facing dihedral about 50 or 60' left of Johnny Vegas. Head up this, passing a bolt and eventually arriving at the first belay for Johnny Vegas. From here, continue up to a large ledge about 20' up and belay. 5.8, 185'
Pitch 2: In the middle of the ledge there is a crack system heading straight up. Follow this until it starts to arch to the left, then step right and go straight up the face, aiming for where the roof above is at its smallest. Belay just above the roof at a stance. 5.8, 150'
Pitch 3: The aid pitch. Head up somewhat easy ground to the base of the overhang. Climb up a couple of moves and then aid through the rest, making a somewhat exposed move at the lip of the roof. Creative gear allows for an anchor right at the lip to prevent rope drag. 5.8 C1, 50'.
Pitch 4: Step to the right and head up and past the bolted station at the top of P3 of Johnny Vegas. Belay at the bolts or boulders above. 5.4, 150'.
Variation: If you're not into the aid climbing thing, you can traverse left under the roof and belay there, then continue to the top. This goes at 5.8+ or 5.9 for a couple of moves.