Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Solar Slab - Lower Tier

Arete left of Beulah's Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Beulah's Book T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Certain Air T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Corona T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dubious Flirtations T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Frieda's Flake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Horndog T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Johnny Vegas T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sandstone Overcast T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Solar Flare T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Solar Slab Gully T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: Trad, Aid, 550 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: FRA: Larry DeAngelo, John Wilder
Page Views: 1,632 total, 10/month
Shared By: John Wilder on Jan 22, 2005
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


8 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This route is something that Larry had been eyeing for a while, well, he had mostly been eyeing the giant roof just up and left from the top of Pitch 2 of Johnny Vegas. Now all we had to do was find a way up there. Larry had heard of a route between Johnny Vegas and Beulah's Book that may offer passage to the route- which it did, with a slight variation.

Pitch 1: Start in a right facing dihedral about 50 or 60' left of Johnny Vegas. Head up this, passing a bolt and eventually arriving at the first belay for Johnny Vegas. From here, continue up to a large ledge about 20' up and belay. 5.8, 185'

Pitch 2: In the middle of the ledge there is a crack system heading straight up. Follow this until it starts to arch to the left, then step right and go straight up the face, aiming for where the roof above is at its smallest. Belay just above the roof at a stance. 5.8, 150'

Pitch 3: The aid pitch. Head up somewhat easy ground to the base of the overhang. Climb up a couple of moves and then aid through the rest, making a somewhat exposed move at the lip of the roof. Creative gear allows for an anchor right at the lip to prevent rope drag. 5.8 C1, 50'.

Pitch 4: Step to the right and head up and past the bolted station at the top of P3 of Johnny Vegas. Belay at the bolts or boulders above. 5.4, 150'.

Variation: If you're not into the aid climbing thing, you can traverse left under the roof and belay there, then continue to the top. This goes at 5.8+ or 5.9 for a couple of moves.

Protection

Bring a regular rack with a set of ballnutz and doubles in the blue/green Alien size for the roof.

Photos

akline
  5.12a/b C1
akline  
  5.12a/b C1
I freed this route on December 10, 2008. Seemed like 5.12a to me. when i did it, i still had loose stuff in the crack, and there was no chalk on it. Apr 2, 2016
Idaho Bob
McCall, ID
  5.8 C1
Idaho Bob   McCall, ID
  5.8 C1
Got on this by mistake,(not on picture in guidebook) we were looking for Bulahs Book, exited on JV as we're not aiders Apr 25, 2014
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
this route got freed over the weekend- clocks in at mid .12 from what i hear.....i'm glad to hear that folks are out giving this one a go! Dec 7, 2008
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Hey guys...I hopped on this about a month ago...Yeah it will go free, pretty easily. I was able to do it with one fall it, on the first try. Any person who is willing to do a little adventure day out there and get on it more then once will have it bagged. If I go back, I'll let you know how it is....12c Nov 22, 2008
J. Thompson
denver, co
 
J. Thompson   denver, co
 
Climbed this route yesterday. It will defianlty go free...and is an absolutely awesome crack(the roof). The 2 pitch's leading up to the roof are fun 5.8.If you have small fingers, freeing the roof will be easier, but it's- probably- possible for a stronge climber with fatter fingers as well. I'm *guessing* this one will come in around 5.12+ to 5.13- Finger size dependant.You need about 3 Blue Aliens(or a like size cam) to protect the roof. May 2, 2005
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
If you're strong and feeling brave, I'm somewhat optimistic that the roof may be possible to free....it's blue alien size for two aid moves- which may translate to three or four roof moves. If you send it, let me know- i'm interested to see if its possible! Mar 6, 2005