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Routes in Solar Slab - Lower Tier

Arete left of Beulah's Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Beulah's Book T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Certain Air T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Corona T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dubious Flirtations T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Frieda's Flake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Horndog T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Johnny Vegas T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sandstone Overcast T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Solar Flare T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Solar Slab Gully T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Larry DeAngelo, Anthony Anagnostou & Karsten Duncan -April 2006
Page Views: 1,691 total, 12/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Apr 21, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Dubious Flirtations has a nice variation of climbing, some spice, and a touch of adventure. It is located the left side of the Solar Wall, in a small alcove just to the left of the Sunburn Buttress. In the alcove, there is a small varnished face split by a razor thin crack rising from the right side of a very clean, rectangular ceiling. The route starts in the corner leading up to this crack.

Move up to a short but wide left-facing corner on face holds and blocks. Continue up the wide corner (number 4 camalot) through the small roof and onto the fingercrack spitting the face. Climb the fingercrack until it seals up. Move out right on face holds to a chimney system and stance. 5.10b/c Belay takes 1"-3"

At this point, you can move right and up (careful for loose rock!) to a rappel from a pine tree next to the second belay on Sunburn Buttress, or continue upward on that route.

Location

To approach, aim for a large roof feature on the left side of the Solar wall. Once you reach the wall traverse left until you see a short left-facing corner that leads to a nice fingercrack splitting a black face.

Protection

Standard rack to #4 camalot. Don't forget smaller cams.
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10
This would be a 3 star route if you could keep climbing it to a belay straight up and it cleaned up a bit. As it stands, climb the face to the left of the corner, get in gear when you hit the crack, climb it through the roof and above. Once the crack peters out drift right - skip the chimney belay and keep going to the bushes until you find the tiny tree belay from which you can rappel. No need for a belay in the middle since it goes easily to the tree as a single pitch. You will need 2 ropes to get off though. Nov 13, 2011