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Routes in Solar Slab - Lower Tier

Arete left of Beulah's Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Beulah's Book T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Certain Air T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Corona T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dubious Flirtations T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Frieda's Flake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Horndog T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Johnny Vegas T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sandstone Overcast T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Solar Flare T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Solar Slab Gully T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
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Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,369 total · 16/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Sep 18, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


About 30' to the right of Solar Flare, climb a clean, left-facing corner. When the corner gets too smooth, make a delicate step left. There is a bolted anchor a short distance above the overhang. It is possible to move left below the overhang and join the easy crack leading to the second belay on Solar Flare.


standard rack


Be advised; this climb is 10a/b "r"... someone will get busted up on this climb...the crux is run out on brittle flakes, lateral 10 feet... and up 10 feet from corner where last pro is... result would be a pendulum (most likely upside down) into corner. The sandstone flakes will give. Would be a quality climb with the addition of one bolt (IMHO)..... Dec 14, 2010
Kevin Dahlstrom
Fort Worth, TX
Kevin Dahlstrom   Fort Worth, TX
The comment from Lou about the runout is incorrect. I think he stepped left too soon and went too far left. The correct beta is to move up the corner as far as possible and place a bomber cam right before the crack pinches off. At this point you're only 6-7 feet below jugs. Make one more stemming move up after placing the cam, then make one thin 5.10 move to the left, then a 5.9 move up on larger crimps and then you're at the larger holds. Might feel a little spicy but not runout or dangerous. Overall I thought this was a quality line with sustained 5.9 climbing and only one move of 5.10. Dec 28, 2017

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