Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Cyclops Area

Big Rocks Remembered S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cyclops S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
End Play S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Forearm Smash T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pigeon Paranoia S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Piranha S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sleeping Bat in a Ziplock Bag S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sobriety S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Suicide Squeeze S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Urban Chunks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
User Friendly S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wasp Mentality S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Work Ethic S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, TR
FA: Jeff Engel
Page Views: 2,068 total, 15/month
Shared By: Glenn Burns on May 16, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


81 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Around the corner from Sleeping Bat in a Ziplock Bag. You'll run into a 8 foot block. Stem your way up between the wall and the block to the first bolt about 15 feet above and meander your way through a number of small holes. Work your way up, then left to the slab and enjoy the slightly run out slabby finish.

  • RCM&W #13, p. 117

Location

left of the large block and about 5 feet right of Piranha.

Protection

5 bolts and a two bolt anchor that should be replaced soon. The guide book indicates that the first bolt is missing. It is not, Jeff Engel - FA, removed the original first bolt as it didn't do much to protect the climb.

Photos

Chase Roskos
Golden, CO
  5.10b
Chase Roskos   Golden, CO
  5.10b
As of today the route was not too dirty. At least not more than every other route! Quite a nice climb though as many have said, and not too polished... shhhh! Don't let the word get out haha. Oct 31, 2010
Andrew R.
Linden, VA
  5.10a
Andrew R.   Linden, VA
  5.10a
Enjoyable route with some fun puzzles to figure out. Dont think its quite .10c. It certainly wasnt harder than Frequent Flatulence which is 10b. Jun 2, 2010
Josh Cox
Andover, MN
Josh Cox   Andover, MN
The top section tricked me, I see now to head left to the slab, but I ended up going straight over the bulge. Seemed harder than .10a that way. Mar 23, 2010
It should probably be called "bat paranoia." My friend and I climbed it the other day and we unleashed 2 bats (1 each) when reaching into the hold just before the ascending to the slab. Made the route a little more exciting. Lot's of fun, though. Jun 4, 2009
Bob Kryzer
Minnesota
  5.10c
Bob Kryzer   Minnesota
  5.10c
Offers three styles of climbing. Lower sections has very normal face climbing, the middle hueco section feels like a boulder problem, and to top it off, a exposed slab with a hidden hold on the top lip. Apr 20, 2009
Dan Roberts
Eastern Iowa
  5.10c
Dan Roberts   Eastern Iowa
  5.10c
Fun and a bit puzzling climb on the first go. Second was really just for a good time. Wrist slot is critical and the blind foot placement into the pocket when mounting the slab is a riot. 10c sounds right. Feb 16, 2009
K Ice
Saint Paul, MN
 
K Ice   Saint Paul, MN
 
Great wrist slot in the hole right before the slab. Great climb! Apr 11, 2008
Kris Gorny

  5.10c
Kris Gorny    
  5.10c
Agree with ferrells. Very fun and unusual, "exposed", crux. Watch out on the sharp holds below the hueco. I broke some off last time I was on it. Nov 28, 2007
ferrells
  5.10c
ferrells  
  5.10c
this is a pretty good route, and deserves to be climbed more. the moves at the top are different than most at red wing. a little more like a 5.9 alpine slab perhaps, only with nice bolts. anybody care to argue? kind of dirty - but we minnesotans can handle that with the best of 'em. maybe if we can come to consensus grade on this one, it will become a little more popular, and take some of the pressure off of jump start and sleeping bat. Nov 8, 2007
Jonathan Williams
Minneapolis
  5.10b/c
Jonathan Williams   Minneapolis
  5.10b/c
Very dirty, but nonetheless a fairly fun route.

C'mon, this is RED WING. Brush of the holds with your fingers and keep going. ;) Mar 25, 2007