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Routes in Cyclops Area

Big Rocks Remembered S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cyclops S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
End Play S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Forearm Smash T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pigeon Paranoia S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Piranha S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sleeping Bat in a Ziplock Bag S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sobriety S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Suicide Squeeze S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Urban Chunks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
User Friendly S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wasp Mentality S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Work Ethic S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Mike Dahlberg
Page Views: 3,616 total, 26/month
Shared By: Chris treggE on Apr 30, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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Description

Fun climb that targets the namesake hole up high.

This is the Ro Shampo of Barn Bluff. 5.12a in the guidebook. Originally listed here as 5.11d, it may have become harder over the years like most popular Red Wing routes (see comments below).

It looks like most recent redpointers have given it 5.12a, so I have changed it to reflect that (January 09).

  • RCM&W #8, p.117

Location

Find the big hole on the cliff wall on the very left-most little bolted area, follow the line of bolts directly below. If I remember right this line shares the anchors with the climb just to the left, Suicide Squeeze. Anybody feel free to correct me if this is wrong, it's been a few years.

Protection

Bolts. Please use your own gear for top rope. Please bring an extra biner and if the ones up top look bad or don't easily clip or shut, please replace it. It's good karma.
Josh Cox
Andover, MN
 
Josh Cox   Andover, MN
 
I think 12a is fairly accurate, that reach at the crux is no slouch, and alternate holds for shorter folks don't look much better. Plus, this is the Yosemite rating not French. Here in America we rate the climb by the hardest individual move.

I do agree that the sustained nature of other climbs adds to difficulty of a send. May 31, 2011
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
 
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
 
Good point ferrells. When I submitted this route and gave it 11d as opposed to the guidebook 12a, I tried to explain my logic. However, I climbed this route 5 years ago and that's also a lot of time to polish the handholds and make the feet slick. As with all of the Bluff, a certain amount of traffic is good to keep the route clean and choss-free, but a lot of traffic makes the route like glass, ala Looking For Lust which is polished as hell for the first 20 feet. Just looking at what folks who have sent in the past 2 years have rated it, I would guess that perhaps it's gotten harder over the years also. Just a thought. Anyway it's a decent route no matter what you rate it, but I wouldn't doubt the most recent majority's 12a, and have now changed it to reflect that. Dec 14, 2008
ferrells
  5.12a
ferrells  
  5.12a
I'd like to reiterate how temperature dependent this thing is. On a humid day, when you can still comfortably do routes like suicide squeeze, mississippi burning, work ethic, wasp mentality, etc, this thing is deadly (and not fun)! On all but a nice brisk day, the rounded crimps ooze a peculiar sort of slime, pitching everyone but the climbers who have it the most wired.
I'd say 11c on a perfect day, 12b on a humid day. Considering that the majority of the climbing season is fairly humid in MN, 12a is probably how most people experience it. Dec 14, 2008
AntVicino
  5.12a
AntVicino  
  5.12a
If Suicide Squeeze is 11c than Cyclops has to atleast be 11d. I personally thought Wasp Mentality was a stiff 11c but didnt consider it harder than Cyclops. Dec 2, 2008
Jordan Seering
  5.12a
Jordan Seering  
  5.12a
My friend and I have always thought that Cyclops is harder than work ethic, so I would say solid 5.12a. Aug 22, 2007
Jonathan Williams
Minneapolis
  5.11c/d
Jonathan Williams   Minneapolis
  5.11c/d
I would grade this harder than the 11s on this cliff. The crimps are very small and polished, esp. with humidity. And while the sole hard move on this climb is harder than the 11s, you're right in that it is not at all sustained.

Nonetheless, very fun. 11d in my opinion. Mar 25, 2007
Kris Gorny

5.11b
Kris Gorny    
5.11b
Agree with Adam on the 11b rating. Ratings are just numbers but they need to relate routes to one another - especially when they are on the same cliff. Giving 12a to a one move wonder Cyclops and 11c to the more difficult Wasp Mentality, which is only 10 yards to the left, is inconsistent. Nov 27, 2006
Adam Therneau
  5.11b
Adam Therneau  
  5.11b
This is a great route, very techy and crimpy. Probably the most overgraded route at redwing that I've done, though. I would say solid 11b. Nov 15, 2006