Type: Sport, 45 ft (14 m)
FA: Jack Powers
Page Views: 477 total · 26/month
Shared By: Jack Powers 1 on Apr 11, 2020
Admins: Kris Gorny, K Ice

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-

Description

This linkup climbs the opening crux of Piranha, traverses through Pigeon Paranoia, and then finishes on Coronation Blues Direct. There are many different ways to traverse through Pigeon Paranoia. Choose your favorite, and use long runners. After clipping the last bolt of Coronation Blues Direct, climb straight up via a very poor side-pull and a shallow pocket, avoiding any handholds to the right of the last bolt. Clip the chains from the left at the lip.

This one seems a bit harder than the standard Piranha finish since it has a fairly hard crux right at the chains. This route is also unique for the Cyclops wall, since all of the other 12s decrease substantially in difficulty after hitting a rest ledge or turning slabby.  Although it has a couple of good shake-out stances, this one stays with you until the end.

Location

Starts on Piranha and finishes on Coronation Blues Direct. 

Protection

Around 5-7 bolts depending on the route you take and how high you stick-clip at the start.  Use long runners to prevent rope drag. Interestingly you end up clipping three bolt types for the three routes you cross: first sleeve bolts, then single shaft glue-ins, then Wave glue-ins.

Photos