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Routes in Cyclops Area

Big Rocks Remembered S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cyclops S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
End Play S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Forearm Smash T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pigeon Paranoia S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Piranha S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sleeping Bat in a Ziplock Bag S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sobriety S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Suicide Squeeze S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Urban Chunks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
User Friendly S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wasp Mentality S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Work Ethic S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Nate Postma
Page Views: 961 total, 7/month
Shared By: Glenn Burns on Apr 19, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

  • RCM&W # 1, p.115

Location

trashy route that starts from the pedestal left of User Friendly.

Protection

the bolts and anchors are corroded and in dire need of replacement. please climb cautiously or go find another route.

added to the bolts/anchor replacement list.
Sean Foster
  5.10c
Sean Foster  
  5.10c
Spent a couple hours cleaning this route from top to bottom on Aug 10. So very dirty! Lots of loose rock came off, lots of dirt from above the climb was swept away.

Bolts are in decent shape. Anchors are rusty but functional. Set a TR on it for others with a cordellette - clove hitched the rusty hook and locking biner on the chain, used a sliding x and a locking biner to hold the rope. Worked well.

Get on this climb this season and give feedback. If the community likes the climb, I'll pony up for some new anchors.

Watched some solid 5.10 climbers struggle with the crux (above the 4th and final bolt). Maybe goes 5.10c based on crux?

Don't belay directly below climb. Dirt and debris still likely to come down, but after cleaning, very little did on our subsequent climbs. Aug 11, 2013
ferrells
  5.10a/b
ferrells  
  5.10a/b
The bolts and anchors are bad, yes, but this route does not deserve the "really trashy" description in the guidebook. There are way way worse routes at Red Wing, with worse protection. The moves on it are actually kind of fun.
But just to be safe, I highly recommend anchoring the belayer to a tree far away from the base of the route. Oct 30, 2007