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Routes in Cyclops Area

Big Rocks Remembered S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cyclops S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
End Play S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Forearm Smash T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pigeon Paranoia S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Piranha S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sleeping Bat in a Ziplock Bag S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sobriety S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Suicide Squeeze S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Urban Chunks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
User Friendly S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wasp Mentality S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Work Ethic S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Mike Dahlberg
Page Views: 5,376 total, 38/month
Shared By: Glenn Burns on May 16, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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Description

Start a little left of the first bolt and a somewhat bouldery start leads up and right to the first bolt. Continue on the right on large holds on a somewhat hollow sounding flake. Once atop the ledge walk to the left, clip a bolt and then continue to the top working back to the right. A direct finish is also possible (5.11a) by continuing straight up from the ledge. Fun and varied climbing.

  • RCM&W #9, p. 117

Location

Approximately 9 feet right of the Cyclops.

Protection

7 bolts and a two bolt anchor. Please use your own gear for top rope. Bring a long sling and extend the 4th bolt to avoid rope drag.a crash pad is not a bad idea here.
BryanE
Minneapolis, MN
 
BryanE   Minneapolis, MN
 
Just climbed this one today and it's probably my favorite route at Red Wing so far. It has a little bit of everything. Super fun all around. Yeah the start is pretty polished and tough but it's not terrible. May 12, 2015
Wilson On The Drums
Woodbury, MN
  5.10+
Wilson On The Drums   Woodbury, MN
  5.10+
the start is bouldery indeed and not 10a... might have been at some point and it's ok to mark this as 10a to keep with the history of the route but anywhere else or if the start of the climb was the finish of the climb it'd easily be 10b/c if not harder. Aug 17, 2014
Dakota S.
Denver, CO
  5.10b
Dakota S.   Denver, CO
  5.10b
Just did this route. Pretty fun, getting the flash was incredibly satisfying! The start in my opinion isn't the hardest. Very boulder-esque but actually doable if you look through the route. The overhanging section after the ledge was definitely the crux. I would honestly say due to the start and finishes it is a solid 5.10b Sep 28, 2013
Adam J. Clark
Mill Creek, WA
  5.10
Adam J. Clark   Mill Creek, WA
  5.10
Climbed the route on Monday, and still find the start to be very difficult for the grade, even more so than the top slab section. The Africa flake seemed very unstable, wiggling just a little bit when stepped on. Jun 26, 2013
Alex Chase
Saint Paul
Alex Chase   Saint Paul
Large Piece of Africa has Pulled Off! The under cling that made up the Ivory Coast has pulled away. Scary to see. This is a major hold just right of the second bolt. Who knows if the rest of the flack know as Africa will start to come off Starting with the "West" side of the Africa. It sounds more hallow than I remember.

I would belay from the left side as the piece went to the right and it would seem the rest of the pieces would as well.

It was a majorly used piece but I believe still doable at the current grad level.

Thanks and climb safe. Oct 23, 2011
Andrew R.
Linden, VA
 
Andrew R.   Linden, VA
 
My favorite of the 10s. Kept saying "Damn this is fun!" as i climbed. Great movements throughout. Jun 2, 2010
Andrew Krosbakken
  5.10a/b
Andrew Krosbakken  
  5.10a/b
Just climbed this route and the start is great. It is not to polished and it is very crimpy, in a good way. I really didn't notice that the second bolt was placed awkardly because of the rockfall, so I don't know. Anyways this is a great route and comes highly recommended.

The start and finish are the cruxes in my opinion, and no I don't believe it is a number grade harder because of the rock fall.

And this climb is very well bolted for anyone who is wondering. Have fun. Apr 5, 2009
Bob Kryzer
Minnesota
 
Bob Kryzer   Minnesota
 
Best warm up route! Usually as crowded as Jump Start Sep 1, 2008
ferrells  
 
The beginning of this route suffered some rockfall this season, and climbs differently as a result. Perhaps a grade harder? With the different sequence, the second bolt is awkwardly positioned.
A couple of negative comments here, but I don't want to dissuade others from climbing it. With prudence, it isn't any more dangerous, and the movement remains as refreshing as a cool glass of iced tea on a hot summer day. Nov 19, 2007
Jordan Seering
  5.10a
Jordan Seering  
  5.10a
I think the start is the crux which is a few bouldery moves to the first bolt. Fun climb! Aug 22, 2007
josh wabaunsee
  5.10+
josh wabaunsee  
  5.10+
This is my least favorite of the 10's at redwing. not only is the start so polished as to be a few lettergrades harder, the bolt locations out right leave something to be desired, and without beta it becomes much harder quickly at the top. Jul 1, 2007
Glenn Burns
St. Paul, MN
 
Glenn Burns   St. Paul, MN
 
the crux is getting to the first bolt. the footholds are like linoleum and the start holds are, well, polished.

fun route after the exciting start.

crash pad is not a bad idea here.

-=g=- May 17, 2007
Adam Therneau
  5.10a
Adam Therneau  
  5.10a
This is the classic redwing 5.10. A little bit of everything: crimpy start, juggy overhang, and balancey finish. Nov 15, 2006