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Coronation Blues
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 2.1 from 18
votes
Routes in Cyclops Area
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Big Rocks Remembered S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Coronation Blues S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Cyclops S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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End Play S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Forearm Smash S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Girl with the Dragon Tattoo, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pigeon Paranoia S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Piranha S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Piranha Blues Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sleeping Bat in a Ziplock Bag S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Sobriety S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Suicide Squeeze S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unknown TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Urban Chunks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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User Friendly S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Wasp Mentality S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Work Ethic S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Sport, 30 ft (9 m) |
| GPS: | 44.56905, -92.52198 |
| FA: | Peter Graupner, Jack Powers |
| Page Views: | 1,223 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Jack Powers on Apr 6, 2020 |
| Admins: | K Ice, Kris Gorny, Robert Omann |
Description
Begin on the second pedestal above Pigeon Paranoia. See beta photo. The climber should hike up and around and drop the rope to the belayer. The belayer should stay at the base near the bottom of Pigeon Paranoia. Clip the first bolt before leaving the pedestal. At the last bolt, the 10c variation involves moving slightly right. The 11c variation (Coronation Blues Direct) goes straight up after clipping the last bolt via a very poor side-pull and a shallow pocket, avoiding any handholds to the right of the last bolt.
The scree gully approach to the back of the second pedestal is the site of frequent rockfall, especially in winter and spring, so heads up.
Protection
Three bolts, chains. All bolts are ClimbTech Wave glue-ins. Although the route is generally safe, I’m adding a PG13 safety rating because of the approach scramble up around to the back the pedestal on loose scree, the dangers of moving around on the pedestal before clipping the first bolt, and because there is a tree near the route that could give a scrape in a fall.
4 Comments