Type: Sport, 30 ft (9 m)
FA: Peter Graupner, Jack Powers
Page Views: 1,060 total · 21/month
Shared By: Jack Powers on Apr 6, 2020
Admins: K Ice, Kris Gorny

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Begin on the second pedestal above Pigeon Paranoia. See beta photo. The climber should hike up and around and drop the rope to the belayer. The belayer should stay at the base near the bottom of Pigeon Paranoia. Clip the first bolt before leaving the pedestal. At the last bolt, the 10c variation involves moving slightly right. The 11c variation (Coronation Blues Direct) goes straight up after clipping the last bolt via a very poor side-pull and a shallow pocket, avoiding any handholds to the right of the last bolt.

The scree gully approach to the back of the second pedestal is the site of frequent rockfall, especially in winter and spring, so heads up. 

Location Suggest change

The second pedestal above and to the right of Pigeon Paranoia.

Protection Suggest change

Three bolts, chains. All bolts are ClimbTech Wave glue-ins.  Although the route is generally safe, I’m adding a PG13 safety rating because of the approach scramble up around to the back the pedestal on loose scree, the dangers of moving around on the pedestal before clipping the first bolt, and because there is a tree near the route that could give a scrape in a fall.