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Routes in Cyclops Area

Big Rocks Remembered S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cyclops S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
End Play S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Forearm Smash T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pigeon Paranoia S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Piranha S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sleeping Bat in a Ziplock Bag S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sobriety S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Suicide Squeeze S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Urban Chunks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
User Friendly S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wasp Mentality S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Work Ethic S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Dan Meyer (1990)
Page Views: 3,817 total, 27/month
Shared By: Chris treggE on Apr 30, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


92 Opinions

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Description

Although the grade is debated a little, this is a great consensus 11. Delicate moves on good rock, not too pumpy as there is a good rest at the ledge and the crux is early. Requires a little thought and a bit of a sequence.

  • RCM&W#7, p.117

Location

Between 'Work Ethic' and 'Cyclops'. Shares anchors with 'Cyclops'.

Check the photo:

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/minnesota/barn_bluff_red_wing_mn/cyclops_area/106091900

Protection

Bolts. Please use your own gear for top rope. Please bring an extra biner and if the ones up top look bad or don't easily clip or shut, please replace. It's good karma.

Photos

Nick.Smith Smith
Saint Paul, Minnesota
  5.11
Nick.Smith Smith   Saint Paul, Minnesota
  5.11
I would highly recommend staying the course over the bulge after the ledge and last bolt. It definitely adds a little something to the flavor. Sep 21, 2013
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
  5.11c
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
  5.11c
agreed: fun thin/techy route. moving out of the cave/hueco is also quite fun, juggy. May 27, 2008
ferrells
  5.11c
ferrells  
  5.11c
A great route on solid rock that onsights a little harder than 11c. It's powerful for the inefficent, and a perfectly pleasant balance-fest for those who can keep their weight over their feet. A delightful way to start working medium 11's at Red Wing, it's also fun to find yourself on this route again and again. Nov 13, 2007
Ian Harmon
Minneapolis, MN
  5.10d
Ian Harmon   Minneapolis, MN
  5.10d
A very fun route, although I think calling it a 5.11c is a bit optomistic, hey it boosts my ego. Follow the small pockets past the first two bolts (crux), at which point the hold start to get a little bigger. Continue to a large ledge and climb the slab to the top clipping a bolt en route. This route shares anchors with Cyclops. Jun 6, 2006