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Routes in Cyclops Area

Big Rocks Remembered S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cyclops S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
End Play S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Forearm Smash T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pigeon Paranoia S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Piranha S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sleeping Bat in a Ziplock Bag S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sobriety S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Suicide Squeeze S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Urban Chunks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
User Friendly S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wasp Mentality S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Work Ethic S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport
FA: Mike Dahlberg and Jeff Engel
Page Views: 323 total · 2/month
Shared By: Chris treggE on May 16, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Urban Chunks is kind of a strange route. The crux is early, 15 feet and it's really over. Hidden holds and balancy moves define the beginning, and the last half is forgettable. Unfortunately I dropped someone on this route (not from far up) as I didn't know he had started climbing (was on TR). So kids always remember to say "climbing" to your belayer.

  • RCM&W #10, p. 117

Location

7' right of Sleeping Bat on the same face, just left of the arete.

Check the photo:

mountainproject.com/v/minne…

Protection

Bolts. Please use your own gear for top rope. Please bring an extra biner and if the ones up top look bad or don't easily clip or shut, please replace. It's good karma.

Photos

BrianUp Up
Charlottesville, VA
 
BrianUp Up   Charlottesville, VA
 
The first 15-20 feet are thin and require good control and crimp strength. I don't remember the top-out that well, but not as hard after the start. I liked the route after I red pointed it. Jul 31, 2007

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