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Routes in Cyclops Area

Big Rocks Remembered S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cyclops S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
End Play S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Forearm Smash T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pigeon Paranoia S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Piranha S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sleeping Bat in a Ziplock Bag S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sobriety S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Suicide Squeeze S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Urban Chunks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
User Friendly S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wasp Mentality S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Work Ethic S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Mike Dahlberg
Page Views: 1,831 total, 13/month
Shared By: Chris treggE on Apr 27, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

A pretty great climb that has a couple surprisingly difficult moves. You can make it a little easier by climbing pretty far right, there is a big edge over there that you can reach the bolt way far left from about 15 feet up, but it's more fun and a little more difficult to try to go straight up. After you nail the crux by snagging the huge flake undercling halfway up it's basically over. A worthy climb-- at least as classic as Annadonia, which gets a lot more traffic.

Be sure to bring your beekeeper's suit and a can of RAID.

  • RCM&W #4, p.115

Location

From the top of the approach trail, take the left where the trail forks. The furthest left bolted wall is the Cyclops area. This climb starts a few feet left of Cooler Crack, next to the tree, climb the line of bolts to the anchor below the birch tree.

Protection

Bolts. Please use your own gear for top rope. Please bring an extra biner and if the ones up top look bad or don't easily clip or shut, please replace it. It's good karma.

Photos

Jonathan Williams
Minneapolis
  5.11c
Jonathan Williams   Minneapolis
  5.11c
Best to do in the spring or late late fall (post-freeze). Not often done, but very fun. Mar 25, 2007
Ian Harmon
Minneapolis, MN
  5.11c
Ian Harmon   Minneapolis, MN
  5.11c
A fun route. The rock is very sharp and the climbing is fairly sustained. Mind the wasps in the namesake bomber undercling about halfway up. The route eases up a bit after either being stung by or avoid the wasps. May 19, 2006