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Routes in Cyclops Area

Big Rocks Remembered S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cyclops S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
End Play S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Forearm Smash T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pigeon Paranoia S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Piranha S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sleeping Bat in a Ziplock Bag S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sobriety S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Suicide Squeeze S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Urban Chunks S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
User Friendly S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wasp Mentality S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Work Ethic S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport
FA: Pam and Nate Postma, 1992
Page Views: 1,235 total · 8/month
Shared By: Chris treggE on May 16, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Interesting pockets and powerful moves down low on this route, then sparsely protected towards the top. Not hard up there but groundfall potential for sure.

  • RCM&W # 11

Location

Find the blunt nose of Urban Chunks, the start of the route is just to the right.

Protection

Bolts. Please use your own gear for top rope. Please bring an extra biner and if the ones up top look bad or don't easily clip or shut, please replace it. It's good karma.

Photos

Scott Hahn  
 
great bottom climbing the top is absolute crap May 23, 2006
Jonathan Williams
Minneapolis
 
Jonathan Williams   Minneapolis
 
Two ways to do the bottom. Make some big moves! Not commonly done, but quite fun. Mar 25, 2007
Kiri Namtvedt
Minneapolis, MN
Kiri Namtvedt   Minneapolis, MN
The start is crimpy and continuous! The way I climbed it involved crimping up to perhaps the second bolt and traversing left with difficulty to insecure huecos. The crimpy difficulties continue until you latch a gigantic rail and move into the easier but unprotected section, a lot like Urban Chunks (but a tad harder). Then a final bolt, and another runout to the top. Sep 14, 2009
Nick Smith
Saint Paul, MN
  5.11d
Nick Smith   Saint Paul, MN
  5.11d
Took some whipper's for the team and broke a pocket and nice big flake off today. Mind what you pull on coming up to the huecos and top section. The more you stay right, the better. Fun bottom section though. Tough start. Sep 21, 2013
Byron
Tucson, AZ
  5.11d
Byron   Tucson, AZ
  5.11d
Fun sharp bouldery bottom. The crux is keeping enough skin on your fingers to bump up some crimps to a slopey horn. Worth doing. Mar 31, 2014
Gavin Purcell
Minneapolis, MN
 
Gavin Purcell   Minneapolis, MN
 
In the long runout section before the last bolt, you'll find a short column. This column can be slung with a double and single length sling together to protect against a bad, albeit unlikely, ground fall. May 22, 2016

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