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Pigeon Paranoia

5.10b/c, Sport, TR,  Avg: 2.3 from 93 votes
FA: Jeff Engel
Minnesota > Barn Bluff (Red… > Cyclops Area

Description

Around the corner from Sleeping Bat in a Ziplock Bag. You'll run into a 8 foot block. Stem your way up between the wall and the block to the first bolt about 15 feet above and meander your way through a number of small holes. Work your way up, then left to the slab and enjoy the slightly run out slabby finish.

  • RCM&W #13, p. 117

Location

left of the large block and about 5 feet right of Piranha.

Protection

5 bolts and a two bolt anchor that should be replaced soon. The guide book indicates that the first bolt is missing. It is not, Jeff Engel - FA, removed the original first bolt as it didn't do much to protect the climb.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Entering the slab on Pigeon Paranoia
[Hide Photo] Entering the slab on Pigeon Paranoia
DP getting ready to move onto the topout slab.
[Hide Photo] DP getting ready to move onto the topout slab.
Charles pulling over the buldge
[Hide Photo] Charles pulling over the buldge
Pigeon Paranoia
[Hide Photo] Pigeon Paranoia

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jonathan Williams
Minneapolis
  5.10b/c
[Hide Comment] Very dirty, but nonetheless a fairly fun route.

C'mon, this is RED WING. Brush of the holds with your fingers and keep going. ;) Mar 25, 2007
ferrells
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] this is a pretty good route, and deserves to be climbed more. the moves at the top are different than most at red wing. a little more like a 5.9 alpine slab perhaps, only with nice bolts. anybody care to argue? kind of dirty - but we minnesotans can handle that with the best of 'em. maybe if we can come to consensus grade on this one, it will become a little more popular, and take some of the pressure off of jump start and sleeping bat. Nov 8, 2007
Kris Gorny

  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Agree with ferrells. Very fun and unusual, "exposed", crux. Watch out on the sharp holds below the hueco. I broke some off last time I was on it. Nov 28, 2007
K Ice
Minneapolis, MN
 
[Hide Comment] Great wrist slot in the hole right before the slab. Great climb! Apr 11, 2008
Dan Roberts
Eastern Iowa
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Fun and a bit puzzling climb on the first go. Second was really just for a good time. Wrist slot is critical and the blind foot placement into the pocket when mounting the slab is a riot. 10c sounds right. Feb 16, 2009
Bob Kryzer
Minnesota
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Offers three styles of climbing. Lower sections has very normal face climbing, the middle hueco section feels like a boulder problem, and to top it off, a exposed slab with a hidden hold on the top lip. Apr 20, 2009
[Hide Comment] It should probably be called "bat paranoia." My friend and I climbed it the other day and we unleashed 2 bats (1 each) when reaching into the hold just before the ascending to the slab. Made the route a little more exciting. Lot's of fun, though. Jun 4, 2009
Josh Cox
Andover, MN
[Hide Comment] The top section tricked me, I see now to head left to the slab, but I ended up going straight over the bulge. Seemed harder than .10a that way. Mar 23, 2010
Andrew R.
Linden, VA
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Enjoyable route with some fun puzzles to figure out. Dont think its quite .10c. It certainly wasnt harder than Frequent Flatulence which is 10b. Jun 2, 2010
Chase Roskos
Golden, CO
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] As of today the route was not too dirty. At least not more than every other route! Quite a nice climb though as many have said, and not too polished... shhhh! Don't let the word get out haha. Oct 31, 2010