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Routes in (5) Shakespeare Cliff

As You Like It T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Azog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Woody T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Love Struck Romeo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Measure for Measure S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Midsummer Night's Scream T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Much Ado About Nothing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ophelia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Othello T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Puck T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sauron T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sweet Sorrow S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Two Gentlemen's Pneumonia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Yost In Space S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Chuck Buzzard 1982
Page Views: 1,725 total, 12/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Apr 5, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Description

Great crack climbing followed by an exciting roof make this a highly memorable climb.

Start in a obvious crack just left of a flat face and right of a bolted column. Climb pleasant 5.9 hands with face holds up to a two bolt anchor with green chains...but don't stop there.
Clip the anchor and work up and into the roof above. Climb a finger crack through the roof to a nice ledge above with a bolted anchor. Best to belay from above and rap off.

Location

Lower Gorge, East Columns, Shakespeare Cliff, look for the roof with green chains below it.

Protection

rack from .5" - 3"

Photos

Muscrat

  5.11a
Muscrat    
  5.11a
And i thought i was 'cheating' by using the hold out left! I tried and tried to work it straight through the roof crack, thin, hard, NOT 10.d! Finally got it out left...? But really really fun! Dec 13, 2014
Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
 
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
 
Hard for 10d to lead. I climb up, place some purple/blue/yellow mastercams as high as I can, downclimb back to the rest, and then just punch it. Stopping to place gear in the roof makes this a 5.11 for sure. I use the hold out left for sure.

If you want to setup as a TR, its best to extend the anchor way out so that you can get the biners over the sharp edge of the lip. Two double shoulder slings and a cordelette will give you the options you need. 60m rope is plenty for this climb.

Many many people only climb up to the first anchor right below the roof, which goes at 5.9. Oct 11, 2014
Johnny Y
California
 
Johnny Y   California
 
The crux felt pretty thin even for my small fingers (between #0 to #1 metolius), cranking straight up that crack seemed hard for the grade. A hold out left may help, bouldery. Oct 9, 2014
rpc
 
rpc  
 
A very nice route. One hard move comes right where things get overhung near the top and before crack opens to allow a finger lock (my opinion). Sep 21, 2007