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Routes in (5) Shakespeare Cliff

As You Like It T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Azog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Woody T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Love Struck Romeo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Measure for Measure S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Midsummer Night's Scream T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Much Ado About Nothing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ophelia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Othello T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Puck T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sauron T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sweet Sorrow S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Two Gentlemen's Pneumonia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Yost In Space S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Matt Farrell
Page Views: 273 total, 8/month
Shared By: Matt Farrell on Mar 15, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Start on the pillar/ledge as for As You Like It. Right away reach around the corner and clip a sneaky bolt. Your belayer should stand down ~20' below you where Sauron starts.

Pull up onto the ledge and execute some extremely balancey/delicate moves to get situated. Pull the hardest single move past the 2nd bolt and continue left up the arete. The route is NOT strenuous for the grade, but you will need to pull out your full bag of lower gorge basalt tricks to keep moving up the arete to the top of the column.

If you have the basalt technique dialed, you will find this route soft for the grade. If you don't, it will feel hard/impossible, and you will be strongly tempted to traverse off the line and into a stem on Sauron. If you find yourself stemming, you are no longer climbing Yost in Space. The 11a is based on not doing one moment of stemming.

At the top of the column, climb 5.easy terrain (shared with As You Like It and Sauron) up to a single bolt to the right of the As You Like It roof crack. Swing out on nice flat face edges with marginal feet so the bolt is in your face/chest and crank straight up past the bolt and over the lip. Use the new ring anchor about 4 feet to your left for the least rope drag/wear on your rope.

Location

Between As You LIke It and Sauron.

Protection

I think I put in 8 bolts? Could be 9. 2 bolt anchor with rings shared with As You Like It and Sauron.

Photos

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Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
 
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
 
This route has some interesting history.

It was first toproped by Brett Yost and Ted Stahl in the 90s. Jeff Frizzel gave Alan Watts a list of lower gorge routes to be included in the second edition of the guidebook, and it included this route as a TR, with Frizzel naming it.

It sat neglected and undone for many years, in large part because it was a TR, but the anchor situation was horrible for toproping it, with heinous rope drag over a very rough/sharp edge that was very harsh on ropes. Furthermore, over the years I have seen a number of people getting their ropes fully and completely stuck in the finishing crack of As You Like It (which used to be the same top-out as Yost in Space).

Kent Benesch and I added a new anchor for As You Like It and Sauron in January 2015, significantly improving the TR situation, and so we TRed Yost In Space, and found it worthy and fun, and a separate line by gorge standards.

In February 2015 after taking a survey of gorge regulars as to whether I should leave it a TR or bolt it, the near unanimous decision was to make it leadable, so I bolted the line and led it, with a new face finish next to the crack finish of As You Like It/Sauron.

I wanted to rename the route "A Yost By Any Other Name" to give it a Shakespearean reference in its name (keeping it consistent with the remainder of the routes on Shakespeare wall), but I decided to honor the wishes of Brett and several longtime Gorge climbers and leave it with the name that Jeff Frizzel gave it. Mar 15, 2015