All Locations > Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (z) Lower Gorge > East Side > (5) Shakespeare Cliff
Yost In Space
Avg: 3 from 5 votes
Routes in (5) Shakespeare Cliff
|As You Like It T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Azog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Big Woody T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Love Struck Romeo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Measure for Measure S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Midsummer Night's Scream T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Much Ado About Nothing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Ophelia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Othello T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Puck T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Sauron T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Sweet Sorrow S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Two Gentlemen's Pneumonia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Unknown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Yost In Space S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Type:||Sport, 85 ft|
|Page Views:||273 total, 8/month|
|Shared By:||Matt Farrell on Mar 15, 2015|
|Admins:||Nate Ball, Micah Klesick|
DescriptionStart on the pillar/ledge as for As You Like It. Right away reach around the corner and clip a sneaky bolt. Your belayer should stand down ~20' below you where Sauron starts.
Pull up onto the ledge and execute some extremely balancey/delicate moves to get situated. Pull the hardest single move past the 2nd bolt and continue left up the arete. The route is NOT strenuous for the grade, but you will need to pull out your full bag of lower gorge basalt tricks to keep moving up the arete to the top of the column.
If you have the basalt technique dialed, you will find this route soft for the grade. If you don't, it will feel hard/impossible, and you will be strongly tempted to traverse off the line and into a stem on Sauron. If you find yourself stemming, you are no longer climbing Yost in Space. The 11a is based on not doing one moment of stemming.
At the top of the column, climb 5.easy terrain (shared with As You Like It and Sauron) up to a single bolt to the right of the As You Like It roof crack. Swing out on nice flat face edges with marginal feet so the bolt is in your face/chest and crank straight up past the bolt and over the lip. Use the new ring anchor about 4 feet to your left for the least rope drag/wear on your rope.
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