Type: Sport, 85 ft (26 m)
FA: Matt Farrell
Page Views: 863 total · 11/month
Shared By: Matt Farrell on Mar 15, 2015
Admins: Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

Description

Start on the pillar/ledge as for As You Like It. Right away reach around the corner and clip a sneaky bolt. Your belayer should stand down ~20' below you where Sauron starts.

Pull up onto the ledge and execute some extremely balancey/delicate moves to get situated. Pull the hardest single move past the 2nd bolt and continue left up the arete. The route is NOT strenuous for the grade, but you will need to pull out your full bag of lower gorge basalt tricks to keep moving up the arete to the top of the column.

If you have the basalt technique dialed, you will find this route soft for the grade. If you don't, it will feel hard/impossible, and you will be strongly tempted to traverse off the line and into a stem on Sauron. If you find yourself stemming, you are no longer climbing Yost in Space. The 11a is based on not doing one moment of stemming.

At the top of the column, climb 5.easy terrain (shared with As You Like It and Sauron) up to a single bolt to the right of the As You Like It roof crack. Swing out on nice flat face edges with marginal feet so the bolt is in your face/chest and crank straight up past the bolt and over the lip. Use the new ring anchor about 4 feet to your left for the least rope drag/wear on your rope.

Location

Between As You LIke It and Sauron.

Protection

I think I put in 8 bolts? Could be 9. 2 bolt anchor with rings shared with As You Like It and Sauron.

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