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Routes in (5) Shakespeare Cliff

As You Like It T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Azog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Woody T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Love Struck Romeo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Measure for Measure S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Midsummer Night's Scream T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Much Ado About Nothing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ophelia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Othello T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Puck T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sauron T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sweet Sorrow S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Two Gentlemen's Pneumonia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Yost In Space S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Brett Yost
Page Views: 807 total, 7/month
Shared By: Joel Sprenger on Nov 28, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

The only bolted line on the Shakespeare Cliff. A fun start pulling over the roof gets harder as you climb up. The route starts working the left side of the arete but works both sides as the column narrows at the top. The crux comes at the 2nd to last bolt where blank arete slapping and lousy feet lead to a desperate clipping hold. Looking for others input so we can get this route information more accurate

Location

I believe this is the only bolted route on the Shakespeare Cliff. Chalk on both sides of the arete make this climb look hard.

Protection

Bolts the whole way up. Shares anchors with Much to Do about Nothing.

Photos

Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
  5.11d
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
  5.11d
Just got some more history on this route - it was toproped by Brett Yost and Ted Stahl. Brett didn't want it bolted, but Ted was very psyched on it, so Brett relented and Ted was the one to bolt it and lead it. Mar 17, 2015
Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
  5.11d
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
  5.11d
Interesting that the name is wrong in the Watts guide.

This is no longer the only sport route on Shakespeare wall. To the left of this line is Yost In Space (11a) and over on the right side of the wall is Sweet Sorrow (~11c).

You can also now continue on a fully bolted adventure by exiting out the top of the column to the left and clipping the new bolt on Yost In Space before pulling the roof. Doesn't change the overall grade of the climb as the crux is still on the top section of the column, and you get a full no-hands after the column before attacking the roof. Mar 13, 2015
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
Changed the name to the correct FA name. Mar 1, 2015
Brett Yost
Bend, Oregon
  5.11d
Brett Yost   Bend, Oregon
  5.11d
Actually, I named this route "Measure for Measure" to stay with the Shakespeare name theme. Not sure where the mix up happened but it would be nice to get it fixed for future editions of the guide.

I think it is 3.5 stars, not quite up to 4 stars but pretty close. Mar 1, 2015
Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
  5.11d
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
  5.11d
Its called Measure For Madness in the Watts guide. The Watts guide gives it .11d, which I think is accurate as long as your arms are long enough to span between both aretes of the column. Dec 29, 2013