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Routes in (5) Shakespeare Cliff

As You Like It T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Azog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Woody T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Love Struck Romeo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Measure for Measure S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Midsummer Night's Scream T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Much Ado About Nothing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ophelia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Othello T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Puck T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sauron T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sweet Sorrow S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Two Gentlemen's Pneumonia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Yost In Space S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Wayne Arrington, 1973 (to original anchor), Mark Deffenbaugh, Terry Schield, June 2004 (entire route)
Page Views: 498 total, 13/month
Shared By: Johnny Y on Oct 9, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

The clean and varied crack just to the right of Much Ado About Nothing. Atop the crack, muscle through the rimrock crux, clearing a small roof on big holds. Original finish traverses out left to the rap anchor of Much Ado.

Location

Just to the right of Much Ado About Nothing. Look for a set of bolted anchor underneath the obvious roof at the cliff, this is the line to the right of that.

Protection

Gear to 2.5"

Photos

K. Robinson
Corvallis, OR
 
K. Robinson   Corvallis, OR
 
Hey Matt,

Yeah I did the yellow line in the route photo. Sep 12, 2017
Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
  5.10a/b
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
  5.10a/b
@K. Robinson - I'm not sure you were on Puck? Its pretty sustained with several 5.9+ or 10- moves down low and through the middle. The whole route is only a hair easier than As You Like It, which I would say is solid 5.10.

Azog has a bunch of 5.4-5.7 on it, with only about 3 moves of maybe 5.9, so saying felt easier than "any moves" on Azog is confusing to me. Did you climb the thin line mostly fingers not much stemming and cut left to the hanging chains atop Measure for Measure? Aug 27, 2017
K. Robinson
Corvallis, OR
 
K. Robinson   Corvallis, OR
 
Going to say that the route up to the first set of chains (so, without pulling the roof) is about 5.8. Felt easier than any moves on Azog or Othello. Jul 30, 2017
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10-
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10-
Sustained route right up to the crux at the top. Not doable as a 5.10- without going left into Much Ado and even from there it's a pump to the chains. Also second stopping at the lower chains. Apr 24, 2017
Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
  5.10a/b
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
  5.10a/b
Good route. Pretty full-on for 10a. Most people do not climb through the rimrock, but instead cut left to the hanging chains atop Measure For Madness/Much Ado About Nothing. Its a bit of a tricky traverse though! Feb 11, 2015