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Routes in (5) Shakespeare Cliff

As You Like It T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Azog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Woody T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Love Struck Romeo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Measure for Measure S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Midsummer Night's Scream T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Much Ado About Nothing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ophelia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Othello T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Puck T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sauron T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sweet Sorrow S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Two Gentlemen's Pneumonia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Yost In Space S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Tom Rogers 1974
Page Views: 619 total, 4/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Apr 5, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Yet another fun hand and finger crack...

On the Shakespeare Cliff start up the left side of the cliff on top of a large flat block.

Follow a great jam crack in a shallow left facing corner to a tricky crux.

Gain a ledge and then power through a final bulge on jugs to an anchor.

Best to belay from above and rap off.

Location

left side of Shakespeare cliff.

Protection

rack from .5" - 2.5"

Photos

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Brett Yost
Bend, Oregon
 
Brett Yost   Bend, Oregon
 
Thanks, Matt. That sounds like a nice improvement. I'll have to get down and check it out; have not been on these classics in a decade. Mar 1, 2015
Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
  5.10b
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
  5.10b
We added a new 2-bolt anchor January 2015 with nice fat rings up just above the roof on climber's left. Now the route no longer shares an anchor with Much Ado About Nothing, but instead has its own anchor (shared with Sauron/Yost In Space). This anchor is much better position for rope-drag/running over the sharp edge (a couple shoulder-length slings are perfect), and the fact that there are two anchors reduces cluster up on the ledge up there.

It is super easy to walk over 15' on the ledge to the existing anchor above Much Ado. Feb 1, 2015
Muscrat

  5.10b
Muscrat    
  5.10b
One of the best lines on the east side. Fun Dec 13, 2014
Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
  5.10b
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
  5.10b
Classic. Crux is not pulling the roof, but is actually jamming in the columns. A 60m gets you to the ground just fine. Oct 22, 2014