Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Wayne Arrington
Page Views: 1,374 total · 9/month
Shared By: Ian McEleney on Nov 20, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


21 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Double cracks immediately left of the bolted route (Measure for Madness, 11d) left of Much Ado About Nothing. Climb to a small ledge then jam, stem, and chimney up to a small roof. Turn this, then find anchors just above the roof on climbers left.

The anchors are shared with As You Like It/Yost In Space.

The roof and headwall make this one of the best 5.9's at Smith.

Protection

A few big cams (up to BD #4) could be useful but not necessary.

Location

Lower Gorge, East Columns, across the river from Cruel Sister.

Photos

Bob Graham
Portland, OR
 
Bob Graham   Portland, OR
 
I love this route and think it is one of the best 5.9 routes I have climbed at Smith. Sep 19, 2007
Burghschred Aliberti
Bend, OR
  5.9+
Burghschred Aliberti   Bend, OR
  5.9+
I agree with Bob, one of the best 5.9s I've ever climbed. More fun than moonshine dihedral IMHO. More sustained than Azog and Othello. Great place to learn crack climbing for sure. Jul 8, 2012
The route name is "Sauron" (the Dark Lord from Lord of the Rings). Evidently Chuck Buzzard had never read the trilogy and spelled it by sound in his 1980s guide to the Lower Gorge. Watts copied Buzzard's information into his guidebook.

I agree it is a good climb. Jun 18, 2013
Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
  5.9+
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
  5.9+
We added a new 2-bolt anchor January 2015 with nice fat rings up just above the roof on climber's left. Now the route no longer shares an anchor with Much Ado About Nothing, but instead has its own anchor (shared with As You Like It/Yost In Space). This anchor is much better position for rope-drag/running over the sharp edge (a couple shoulder-length slings are perfect), and the fact that there are two anchors reduces cluster up on the ledge.

It is super easy to walk over 15' on the ledge to the existing anchor above Much Ado.

I enjoyed this route - its definitely pretty physical for 5.9. I don't think I would call it "one of the best 5.9's at Smith," but it is good quality. I think both Othello and Azog on Shakespeare are better 5.9s, but really all three of these are highly worth doing. The Virgin Slayer on Student Wall is also a really high quality trad 5.9. Feb 1, 2015