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Routes in (5) Shakespeare Cliff

As You Like It T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Azog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Woody T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Love Struck Romeo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Measure for Measure S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Midsummer Night's Scream T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Much Ado About Nothing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ophelia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Othello T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Puck T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sauron T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sweet Sorrow S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Two Gentlemen's Pneumonia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Yost In Space S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Wayne Arrington
Page Views: 1,238 total, 9/month
Shared By: Ian McEleney on Nov 20, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

Double cracks immediately left of the bolted route (Measure for Madness, 11d) left of Much Ado About Nothing. Climb to a small ledge then jam, stem, and chimney up to a small roof. Turn this, then find anchors just above the roof on climbers left.

The anchors are shared with As You Like It/Yost In Space.

The roof and headwall make this one of the best 5.9's at Smith.

Protection

A few big cams (up to BD #4) could be useful but not necessary.

Location

Lower Gorge, East Columns, across the river from Cruel Sister.

Photos

Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
  5.9+
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
  5.9+
We added a new 2-bolt anchor January 2015 with nice fat rings up just above the roof on climber's left. Now the route no longer shares an anchor with Much Ado About Nothing, but instead has its own anchor (shared with As You Like It/Yost In Space). This anchor is much better position for rope-drag/running over the sharp edge (a couple shoulder-length slings are perfect), and the fact that there are two anchors reduces cluster up on the ledge.

It is super easy to walk over 15' on the ledge to the existing anchor above Much Ado.

I enjoyed this route - its definitely pretty physical for 5.9. I don't think I would call it "one of the best 5.9's at Smith," but it is good quality. I think both Othello and Azog on Shakespeare are better 5.9s, but really all three of these are highly worth doing. The Virgin Slayer on Student Wall is also a really high quality trad 5.9. Feb 1, 2015
The route name is "Sauron" (the Dark Lord from Lord of the Rings). Evidently Chuck Buzzard had never read the trilogy and spelled it by sound in his 1980s guide to the Lower Gorge. Watts copied Buzzard's information into his guidebook.

I agree it is a good climb. Jun 18, 2013
Burghschred Aliberti
Bend, OR
  5.9+
Burghschred Aliberti   Bend, OR
  5.9+
I agree with Bob, one of the best 5.9s I've ever climbed. More fun than moonshine dihedral IMHO. More sustained than Azog and Othello. Great place to learn crack climbing for sure. Jul 8, 2012
Bob Graham  
 
I love this route and think it is one of the best 5.9 routes I have climbed at Smith. Sep 19, 2007