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Routes in (5) Shakespeare Cliff

As You Like It T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Azog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Woody T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Love Struck Romeo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Measure for Measure S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Midsummer Night's Scream T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Much Ado About Nothing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ophelia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Othello T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Puck T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sauron T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sweet Sorrow S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Two Gentlemen's Pneumonia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Yost In Space S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Matt Farrell
Page Views: 182 total, 5/month
Shared By: Matt Farrell on Mar 15, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Sweet Sorrow climbs the arete of the column to the right of Two Gentlemen's Pneumonia. I spied this line in late January 2015 and put it up early February. The left face was pretty lichen covered, and I pretty much ruined a stiff brush getting the lichen off the arete. Its pretty clean and very climbable now.

Start on the right crack and climb ~15' past a single bolt to a big ledge that you can easily stand on.

From the ledge, reach up and clip the 2nd bolt. A crux sequence pulls off the ledge past the 2nd bolt and around the arete to the left. Climb really cool and enjoyable .10+ arete moves past 3 more bolts to the top of the column.

Protection

5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor with rings on the top of the column.

Photos

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Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
 
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
 
You can easily climb the 5.7 to the left (Two Gentlemen's Pneumonia) to setup Sweet Sorrow as a TR. Mar 17, 2015