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Routes in (5) Shakespeare Cliff

As You Like It T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Azog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Woody T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Love Struck Romeo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Measure for Measure S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Midsummer Night's Scream T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Much Ado About Nothing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ophelia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Othello T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Puck T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sauron T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Summer's Tale S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sweet Sorrow S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Two Gentlemen's Pneumonia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Yost In Space S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Wayne Arrington, 1974
Page Views: 1,174 total · 8/month
Shared By: Ian McEleney on Dec 26, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

The third crack right of Much Ado. This mostly hands crack gets more difficult until you get to the crux, about 3/4 of the way up. After this it eases up to the anchors.

Protection

gear to 3 inches

Photos

Toby Butterfield
Portland, OR
  5.9
Toby Butterfield   Portland, OR
  5.9
#0.5 C4 protects the crux. Apr 18, 2011
Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
  5.8+
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
  5.8+
Soft for 5.9. Really good climb for the aspiring 5.9 lower gorge leader. 5.4 for the first half, bomber gear, very straightforward. Oct 22, 2014
Muscrat

  5.9
Muscrat    
  5.9
Don't forget your nuts. ! . Dec 13, 2014
Obi
Portland, OR
  5.10a
Obi   Portland, OR
  5.10a
(Some beta below)
Final crux moves may be height dependent. I'm 5'8" (+1 ape index) and had to make some committing moves and quite a bit of power to reach the jug flake finish while my partner who is 6' giant" easily reached the same flake from a bomber foot hold in the crack.

I'm curious to know if I perhaps missed something and I over-burled my way up it. Oct 9, 2017

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