Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Wayne Arrington, 1974
Page Views: 1,213 total · 8/month
Shared By: Ian McEleney on Dec 26, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


37 Opinions

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Description

The third crack right of Much Ado. This mostly hands crack gets more difficult until you get to the crux, about 3/4 of the way up. After this it eases up to the anchors.

Protection

gear to 3 inches

Photos

Toby Butterfield
Portland, OR
  5.9
Toby Butterfield   Portland, OR
  5.9
#0.5 C4 protects the crux. Apr 18, 2011
Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
  5.8+
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
  5.8+
Soft for 5.9. Really good climb for the aspiring 5.9 lower gorge leader. 5.4 for the first half, bomber gear, very straightforward. Oct 22, 2014
Muscrat

  5.9
Muscrat    
  5.9
Don't forget your nuts. ! . Dec 13, 2014
Obi
Portland, OR
  5.10a
Obi   Portland, OR
  5.10a
(Some beta below)
Final crux moves may be height dependent. I'm 5'8" (+1 ape index) and had to make some committing moves and quite a bit of power to reach the jug flake finish while my partner who is 6' giant" easily reached the same flake from a bomber foot hold in the crack.

I'm curious to know if I perhaps missed something and I over-burled my way up it. Oct 9, 2017