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Routes in Fin Wall

Beauty and the Beast T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brother From Another Planet T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Court Summons T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Crappucino T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
DF T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Demolition T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dirty street Fight T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Double Trouble T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
FF1 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
FF2 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Feliz de Fin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feltcher, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fin del Mundo T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Finito T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finless Brown T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Finnegan's Whiskers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fintastic T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flight Time T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Force It In T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hot Fun Sunday T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jewel of Denial T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Nagasaki T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
No Beggin' T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nukanator T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Piano, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Salmon Run T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Skid Row T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Strike and Dip T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Third World Lover T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown finger crack L of Crappucino T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed twin crack L of Double Trouble T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Virgin Voyage T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Walkin' Talkin' Bob T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
White Salamander T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Wrasse T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Justin Cassels
Page Views: 1,402 total, 10/month
Shared By: Tony B on Mar 2, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The name on the plaque is Fletcher, although Bloom's guidebook refers to this as 'The Feltcher.' But why would anyone name a good route like that?

Climb to a corner and protect it, then climb into a band of questionable rock. Carefully place a 3" cam (or so) in a solid horizontal, then move up a thin crack, protecting that, and adding slings on the right. GO left out and up a flake (stemming crux) and left out the top of a small roof to a crack. Traverse back right (balance crux) and follow the thin hands crack and corner to the top as it widens (enduro crux).

Location

Just left of where the trail reaches the SE face of the Fin, you will encounter an obvious crack with a broken corner at the bottom and a weird flake (juts out left) guarding the exit of that section to the good crack. the route is well marked by a plaque.

Protection

Bloom's book is misleading. It suggests heavy 1.5" cams and then a few 2.5" 's. Whereas in fact, you need some 2"s for sure. Perhaps he equivocated .75 camalots (green) as 1.5" cams?
Take cams from your smallest cam to .75" (1 each), a 3" cam for the horizontal before the bad rock, then a few 1" and maybe 4X each 1.5 and 2" cams. Then a few 2.5's for the top section.

Photos

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Matt Pesce
moab, ut.
 
Matt Pesce   moab, ut.
 
FLETCHER...says so on the plaque. Jun 22, 2013
Jeff Scheuerell
  5.11a R
Jeff Scheuerell  
  5.11a R
The first bit of this route is very fun climbing but on choss, don't fall. Putting more than one peice in the horizontal might be a good idea. There was a fixed tcu in the thin crack below the horizontal when I did it. Nov 16, 2008
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
"1.5 inch would be a .75 camalot, 1 inch would be a .5, 2.5 inch would be a 2 camalot, and so on. its important to realize this when reading blooms book."

Nearest equivalent, yes... but if all you take on this climb is what he says and translate it, you might be sorry.
A .75 camalot is a little bigger than a 1.5" and a 2 camalot is a 2.25" peice...
When a climb borders on the edge of an overlap sometimes you don't get what you want and nothing fits. I always take a peice or two above and below the descrition to account for rack lost in translation. And that serves me well. Nov 16, 2007
1.5 inch would be a .75 camalot, 1 inch would be a .5, 2.5 inch would be a 2 camalot, and so on. its important to realize this when reading blooms book.

bobby May 10, 2006
This pitch has a lot of fun climbing and many rests (it's a soft touch for the cliff). The bottom 30' are a nice change of pace, gym style climbing. A confidence inspiring introduction to the grade. Apr 1, 2006