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Routes in Fin Wall
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Beauty and the Beast T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Brother From Another Planet T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cactapuss T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Court Summons T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Crappucino T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Demolition T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Desert Power T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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DF T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Dirty street Fight T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Double Trouble T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Dude, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Feliz de Fin T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Feltcher, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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FF1 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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FF2 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fin del Mundo T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Finito T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Finless Brown T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Finnegan's Whiskers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fintastic T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Flake, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Flight Time T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Force It In T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Hot Fun Sunday (Fell Down) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Jewel of Denial T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Last Day, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lightning Lizard T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nagasaki T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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No Beggin' T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Nukanator T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Salmon Run T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Skid Row T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Strike and Dip T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Third World Lover T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown finger crack L of Crappucino T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Virgin Voyage T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Walkin' Talkin' Bob T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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White Cracker Killer T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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White Salamander T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Wrasse (Fell Down) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m) |
| GPS: | 38.10031, -109.57313 |
| FA: | Petro/Gnade |
| Page Views: | 2,987 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | david goldstein on May 10, 2006 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! Raptor Closures!
Details
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
The bottom half is a less than vertical corner (~5.9) crack with rests crack that widens from 3 Friends to 4 Friends. The upper half of the pitch overhangs and is more consistent in size, 3.5 Friends or blue Camalots.
A pretty great line, but docked a star because I decided midway through the crux upper section that I really don't like fist jamming.
Location
On the far right side of Fin, about 50 meters past Virgin Voyage. Like most corners on Fin, this faces right; it goes into the shade around noon in the spring.
Protection
The first 30' feet or so is pretty easy and can be protected w/ 3 Friends or gold Camalots. After that it's a question of how many 3.5 F / Blue C you need/want to protect 100', 50' or so of which are continuously overhanging; I believe I had seven but I also had one #4 Friend and three #3.5 Camalots. I would have preferred to have more of the 3F / Blue C sizes. I'm usually good at walking larger pieces but it found doing so difficult on the overhanging section of this climb.
The anchor is not so great: one modern bolt w/ some slings through it and a vintage Hong bolt with a cheesy home made hanger and a single sling girth hitched through the sharp-edged eye.
Our 70M rope was just barely long enough to rap with about 5' of down climbing.
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