Avg: 2.6 from 9 votes
|Type:||Trad, 150 ft (45 m)|
|FA:||unknown to me|
|Page Views:||1,271 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||david goldstein on Apr 1, 2006|
|Admins:||slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
2021 Raptor Avoidance Areas
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls, and often return to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that climbers and hikers avoid nest areas during critical nesting periods, typically in early March through late August. Avoiding climbing and hiking in the vicinity of the nests and keeping a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the BLM asks the public to avoid climbing or hiking in areas with high potential or historically known to have bird nesting activity. The impacted areas are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. This list serves only as a guide and does not indicate every avoidance area or their many names. For access to a map of raptor avoidance area or any questions about raptors and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Thomas Plank or Jason Byrd with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Full press release: blm.gov/press-release/blm-a…
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
This climb starts just left of No Beggin' at a right facing corner/crack which has a section of fists through a roof about 20' above the deck. Climb easily up to the start of the roof then pull it (crux 1) and gain a welcome stance. About 30' of easier thin hands climbing in a corner leads to a ledge where there used to be bolts. It probably makes sense to break the climb into two pitches and belay here because crux two is just above the ledge and decking is a possibility. Crux 2 features an overhanging thin hands or lieback corner on suspect rock an edge of which broke on me as I was liebacking it. The corner is followed by airy face/crack climbing on more dubious rock leading to a semi-stance below a roof. Figure out a way around the roof (crux 3). Another stretch of easier climbing leads to a final 15' of thin fingers in an oblique corner (crux 4) and the anchors.
Four stars worth of climbing but I subtracted a star each for the bad rock and distracting ledge around crux two.