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Routes in Fin Wall

Beauty and the Beast T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brother From Another Planet T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Court Summons T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Crappucino T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
DF T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Demolition T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dirty street Fight T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Double Trouble T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
FF1 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
FF2 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Feliz de Fin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feltcher, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fin del Mundo T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Finito T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finless Brown T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Finnegan's Whiskers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fintastic T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flight Time T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Force It In T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hot Fun Sunday T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jewel of Denial T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Nagasaki T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
No Beggin' T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nukanator T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Piano, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Salmon Run T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Skid Row T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Strike and Dip T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Third World Lover T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown finger crack L of Crappucino T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed twin crack L of Double Trouble T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Virgin Voyage T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Walkin' Talkin' Bob T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
White Salamander T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Wrasse T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Eric Decaria
Page Views: 1,779 total, 12/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 29, 2005
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Three star moves on two star rock. Everyone I saw follow it loved it though a few leaders were a bit wigged out up there.This is the narrow right-facing corner close to the left end of Finn Wall. A few distingusing features are the wide inset at the start with a little calcite on the left side of the inside of this corner, the "chunky" looking band 1/2 way up, which is actually very good rock and not generally loose, and then at the top the thin cracks and flakes to the left of the dihedral for the last 10+ meters, which are the crux.

Climb this to the top, up high stemming and long moves between the best locks are the keys to success. The anchor is an open hanger + bolt with a fixed biner. Not ideal for TR-ing. If you do, clove-hitch or girth-hitch the sling to the 'open' to keep it seated.

The climb requires a 70M rope to lower off or TR.

Protection

Cams from tiny (thin tips) to 4". two each .75", 1", and 1.5"; three each 2" & 2.5"; three or four 3"; two 3.5".

Photos

Dan G0D5H411
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10 PG13
Dan G0D5H411   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10 PG13
This route is amazing in its improbability of being climbed at only 5.10! 4 star movement reduced to 3 stars by some lower quality rock in the middle of the climb and blocks above. Anchors 5 feet lower would mitigate some of the fear induced by large blocks at the top of the route. Dec 2, 2013
Cody Ferguson
Durango, CO
 
Cody Ferguson   Durango, CO
 
I agree with Kole, but then again, I also dig climbing in Sedona. I found it to really be a gem hidden behind a quirky somewhat pessimistic name. I'd highly recommend it--it'll definitely wake you up. Mar 26, 2010
Kole DeCou
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Kole DeCou   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Personally this is my favorite 10 at the creek, but I may have strange tastes. The pro is good and the loose rock easily climbed around if you've climbed much in the desert. Jan 30, 2007
Par Lindholm  
 
This route is so scary. I wouldn't recommend it to anyone. If you decide to lead it, make sure your belayer uses a helmet and stays safely to the side. There are a lot of HUGE loose blocks up there, blocks that will hold for climbing but probably not for any kind of fall. Nov 7, 2006
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
Yeah, there is, but not more than the name is on it as I recall. It's in the book as such as well. Nov 19, 2005
hey. think this a route i put up with eric d in the late 90s. was there a scratched marker naming it? Nov 16, 2005