Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Eric Decaria
Page Views: 2,212 total · 12/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 29, 2005
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - In Effect Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: See main page for raptor info. Details

Description

Three star moves on two star rock. Everyone I saw follow it loved it though a few leaders were a bit wigged out up there.This is the narrow right-facing corner close to the left end of Finn Wall. A few distingusing features are the wide inset at the start with a little calcite on the left side of the inside of this corner, the "chunky" looking band 1/2 way up, which is actually very good rock and not generally loose, and then at the top the thin cracks and flakes to the left of the dihedral for the last 10+ meters, which are the crux.

Climb this to the top, up high stemming and long moves between the best locks are the keys to success. The anchor is an open hanger + bolt with a fixed biner. Not ideal for TR-ing. If you do, clove-hitch or girth-hitch the sling to the 'open' to keep it seated.

The climb requires a 70M rope to lower off or TR.

Protection

Cams from tiny (thin tips) to 4". two each .75", 1", and 1.5"; three each 2" & 2.5"; three or four 3"; two 3.5".

Photos