Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,526 total · 30/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - now open 10/11/19 Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: See main page for raptor info. Details

Description

Awesome route with 4 distinct sections. 70m rope needed. Plenty of rests makes this pitch very approachable.

The first section is a bouldery start off the ground. Definitely 10+ish. I placed doubled yellows alien right before the move, and then a red alien part way through.

Then you get a nice section of mixed-size jamming with occasional stemming feet.

Next up is a 40' section of green (#.75) Camalots. Normally this would be desperate thrutching and aid climbing for me, but there is an awesome offset wall to the left with good feet and you can do the whole section with chimney moves. Unlimited no hands rests all the way up.

Then you get to a huge resting ledge where you can contemplate the business.

And the business is about 30 feet of tight hands (#1 Camalots) Power through this as the angle kicks back and you get rewarded with some bomber hand jams (#2 Camalots) and finally some wide hands (#3 Camalots) up over the roof. I brought a 3.5" Camalot but never placed it.

Protection

2 Yellow Alients & 1 Red Alien. 3 #0.5 Camalots. 5 #0.75 Camalots. 7 #1 Camalots. 4 #2 Camalots. 4 #3 Camalots. Yes, I stitched it up.

Photos