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Routes in Fin Wall

Beauty and the Beast T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brother From Another Planet T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Court Summons T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Crappucino T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
DF T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Demolition T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dirty street Fight T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Double Trouble T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
FF1 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
FF2 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Feliz de Fin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feltcher, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fin del Mundo T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Finito T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finless Brown T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Finnegan's Whiskers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fintastic T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flight Time T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Force It In T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hot Fun Sunday T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jewel of Denial T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nagasaki T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
No Beggin' T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nukanator T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Piano, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Salmon Run T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Skid Row T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Strike and Dip T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Third World Lover T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown finger crack L of Crappucino T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed thin hands T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unnamed twin crack L of Double Trouble T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Virgin Voyage T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Walkin' Talkin' Bob T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
White Salamander T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Wrasse T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,941 total · 31/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Awesome route with 4 distinct sections. 70m rope needed. Plenty of rests makes this pitch very approachable.

The first section is a bouldery start off the ground. Definitely 10+ish. I placed doubled yellows alien right before the move, and then a red alien part way through.

Then you get a nice section of mixed-size jamming with occasional stemming feet.

Next up is a 40' section of green (#.75) Camalots. Normally this would be desperate thrutching and aid climbing for me, but there is an awesome offset wall to the left with good feet and you can do the whole section with chimney moves. Unlimited no hands rests all the way up.

Then you get to a huge resting ledge where you can contemplate the business.

And the business is about 30 feet of tight hands (#1 Camalots) Power through this as the angle kicks back and you get rewarded with some bomber hand jams (#2 Camalots) and finally some wide hands (#3 Camalots) up over the roof. I brought a 3.5" Camalot but never placed it.

Protection

2 Yellow Alients & 1 Red Alien. 3 #0.5 Camalots. 5 #0.75 Camalots. 7 #1 Camalots. 4 #2 Camalots. 4 #3 Camalots. Yes, I stitched it up.

Photos

Adam P.
San Jose, CA
  5.10d
Adam P.   San Jose, CA
  5.10d
I climbed this route on 11/25/17 and found it pretty stout relative to other routes of similar or harder difficulty at Indian Creek. That said, I'm not in the best physical condition now, and was in much better condition when I did the harder climbs. I'm more curious about the strategy people with larger hands employ for the #1 C4 section towards the top. Is it a layback, or do people jam it straight in?

Regarding rack beta, I would recommend: 2x Yellow Alien, 3x #0.5 C4, 4-5x #0.75 C4, 6-8x #1 C4, and 4x #2 C4. You can add two #3 C4s, but there were plenty of opportunities to place other gear immediately before and after these sections. As always, YMMV when it comes to gear recommendations. Nov 29, 2017
Eric Chabot
Salt Lake City, UT
Eric Chabot   Salt Lake City, UT
Careful with your rope at the top of the climb. If you place a #2/ #3 in the top of the crack without extending the peices, you'll get heinous rope drag unless the rope runs through the crack--which will then push the cams far far back into the depths making them difficult to retrieve without small hands/arms. A quickdraw/sling on the top 2 pieces would allow the rope to stay out of the crack without drag, worth bringing a couple extra.

Great route. Felt hard for 5.10, but #1 is a hard size for me. Nov 21, 2017
erik rieger
Ridgway, CO
erik rieger   Ridgway, CO
Anchor needs updating Oct 22, 2016
m-earle
USA
m-earle   USA
I felt this route was more like 5.11-. none of the moves were particularly hard, but the route goes on and on. very strenuos, and very good. Nov 6, 2006
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Really nice route with good gear. Thin hands to hands through some easier climbing, but ever steepening and ever widening. Take protection to 3.5" Mar 2, 2006
Mark Gain
  5.10d
Mark Gain  
  5.10d
I climbed this as my first route in IC 1993. Loved it all the way, with all the struggle and gumption I could; until the top, where I was sooooo spent (100+ feet of endurance) that I reached over the IC finsish and grabbed on to a nice block that had a good hold cliff side, I begun to pull/mantle to the pins, when BAMMMMMMM, thunder rolled as the micro wave size boulder was dislodged, I fall back and yell ROCK!!!!, then I begin the free fall as I look below to see what my belayer was doing and what was I into. He was on it!, and taking in slack as he dove under a sandy overhang. I dropped for a good while as I was not conserving gear (very different than JT or Paridise Forks), rocks peltted the ground. Belayer and climber fine and I wanted another of those finest cracks around to climb.

Nice

Dec 26, 2005

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