Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jay Brown
Page Views: 917 total · 5/month
Shared By: Jay 1975 on Apr 27, 2005
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

To the right about 25 feet of Brother From Another Planet. Start on a 8 foot pedestal.Climb up, then left, then up again in an off-width to 2 rings.

Protection

rack cams: 1 #1; 2 #2; 1 #3; 3 #3.5; 3 #4; 2 #5

Photos

giving this route 2 stars, at the creek no less, is hilarious. maybe in kansas though. May 2, 2005
JoergB
Germany
 
JoergB   Germany
 
The start is a bit akward because of the loose flake inside the crack. But further up its a great offwidth offering oportunities to practice hand-fist and double hand stack. Oct 14, 2009
Sam Feuerborn
Carbondale
 
Sam Feuerborn   Carbondale
 
Loose flake is gone as of this last weekend. Feb 13, 2012
Ray Lovestead
Boulder, CO
  5.10
Ray Lovestead   Boulder, CO
  5.10
GEAR BETA!!

The gear description of this route is dangerously wrong. Those are 2x old school #5s in the description AND a you need a big bro. You will deck if you fall in the large middle section unless you have a big bro. I had to stop mid-route, hang on for dear life, and drop a line in order to bring mine up.

This is my gear beta (new sizes):

2x #3s for the start, 2x #5s, #4 big bro (blue), 2x #6. Then maybe a 5 or 4 above when you finally get to make an actual hand stack. Nov 30, 2015
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
  5.10+
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
  5.10+
dont fall. Dec 4, 2015