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Routes in Fin Wall

Beauty and the Beast T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brother From Another Planet T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Court Summons T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Crappucino T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
DF T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Demolition T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dirty street Fight T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Double Trouble T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
FF1 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
FF2 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Feliz de Fin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feltcher, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fin del Mundo T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Finito T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finless Brown T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Finnegan's Whiskers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fintastic T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flight Time T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Force It In T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hot Fun Sunday T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jewel of Denial T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Nagasaki T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
No Beggin' T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Nukanator T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Piano, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Salmon Run T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Skid Row T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Strike and Dip T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Third World Lover T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown finger crack L of Crappucino T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed thin hands T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unnamed twin crack L of Double Trouble T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Virgin Voyage T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Walkin' Talkin' Bob T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
White Salamander T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Wrasse T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Petro/Gnade
Page Views: 1,898 total, 16/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Apr 27, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Start with about 10 feet of face climbing to get to a tight, right-facing corner in great looking dark rock.

Location

Located on the right side of the wall. It is the next route to the right of Double Trouble.

Protection

#.3 - #.5 Camalots.

Photos

Raddam6
Salt Lake
  5.12
Raddam6   Salt Lake
  5.12
I would bring 5 0.3 camalots, 3 0.4 camalots and 1 0.5. Finger size dependent. If you had 0.3 size fingers it might feel 5.11 but for the last 20 feet I was forced into a power tips layback with 1/2 pad and it felt desperate. Didn't send. Apr 29, 2016
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Could be a lil harder if you place as much gear as is talked about above..

Placed
2 green alien, 3x.3, 3x.4, 1 Grey alien.

9 Pieces in 60' for an OS...Still kinda heavy


And the name is

BEAUTY IN THE BEAST!!! not Beauty and the beast Apr 14, 2016
khoa
Tacomarado
 
khoa   Tacomarado
 
fa: Petro/Gnade Apr 12, 2016
slim

  5.12-
slim    
  5.12-
great little route with ultra-sticky fingers. bloom's latest recommends (7) .4 camalots and (2) .3 camalots. i actually used more .3's than .4's - maybe (6) .3 and (4) .4 or so. this would be a good first 12 at the creek - not too long, fairly straight forward, lots of fun. Dec 2, 2013
Jason S.
Durango, Co
 
Jason S.   Durango, Co
 
I agree, in camalots: maybe one .5, lots of .4's and a .3 or two for the top will make you feel nice. Also maybe one thinner piece for the start. Great route, especially if your fingers are a little small for good locks on Flight Time. Also the anchors could use a couple chains, the webbing nest up there is a little scary. Aug 31, 2011
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
The vague gear description makes me think the poster of this route has not actually been on the route. Just did this route today. Seemed pretty reasonable for the grade, but my fingers fit well. Big fingers would make this route real tough. For me, an ideal rack would include 3 blue metolius/green alien, 6 yellow metolius, 1-2 #0.5 Camelot. Nothing larger will fit. Keep you eyes out on both sides of the crack for stems. High quality rock but short. 3 out of 5 stars. Oct 1, 2008