Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,321 total · 13/month
Shared By: John Barkhausen on Oct 2, 2010
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

In the Guide, this climbed is called "Unnamed", but we thought it was way to good to go unnamed, so we named it. If you disagree, let us know and we'll change it back.

Start chimneying between the main face and a short block along a thin finger crack until you can stand on the block. Then, gain a long, winding flake that creates a crack that goes from hands to fist, through a blocky off-width and back to small hands to finish. There's a thin, .3 Camalot sized, finger crack just left of the main crack. Move through a tight squeezing, long reaching, hands roof to a two bolt anchor.

Location

Directly right of No Beggin'. There is a small plaque that reads "5.10" at the bottom.

Protection

Camalots; triples .3s, doubles 1,2,3, singles of .5,.75
Metolious TCU; yellow, blue

Photos

303scott
  5.10
303scott  
  5.10
Despite some loose rock in the middle, this is a quality route. The perfect hands v-slot roof finish has great exposure and interesting movement. We belayed with a 70m rope no problem. A 60 won't reach the ground, but might reach the top of the first pillar. Apr 12, 2011
mountainhick
Black Hawk, CO
mountainhick   Black Hawk, CO
Incredibly varied. Not a typical IC splitter. I really liked this climb. Nov 9, 2013
John Barkhausen
  5.10
John Barkhausen  
  5.10
As of 4/2015; the large pillar right at base of this climb has fallen. Now, instead of starting with a mellow chimney with a thin-fingers option, this climb gets going right off the ground. I think the grade is still accurate, but now it's just a little more sustained. Apr 17, 2015
Jeff McLeod
  5.10+
Jeff McLeod  
  5.10+
This route was fun with some strenuous cruxes near the top and some tough liebacking right off the ground. I elected to take the thin 0.3-0.5 camalot crack to the left of the flake to start, because the most accessible part of the flake looked a bit crusty and loose to place pro in. That said, after a few moves off the ground you can stem or hand-jam out right into the flake and feel very secure. Oct 10, 2015
Maggie Keating
Moab, UT
Maggie Keating   Moab, UT
This block broke off of the left finger crack at the top of the mini-slot at the start of this climb today (10.01.17). Doesn't really change the climb but just mind the choss on this route.. otherwise it's super fun!

Oct 1, 2017
justino  
^^^^^^^^
The reality of wet rock! Oct 2, 2017
caughtinside
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
Why are you two climbing on wet sandstone? That is poor stewardship. Oct 2, 2017
Greyson
SLC, UT
Greyson   SLC, UT
I would advise a triple rack from green alien to #3 camalot. If you bring up a #4 there a few spots to place it. Many runners would be nice as well. A unique route that is different than many creek splitters. Oct 25, 2018