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Routes in Helen's Dome

A Nice Top Rope TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
AWOL (aka Moss Toss) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beam Me Up, Scotty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Borderline Boulevard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brave Cowboy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Buffalo Soldier T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Buffalo Tears T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Electric Koolaid Acid Test T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Face Value T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fool's Gold T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fractured Fairytales S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gettin' the Groove S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
On the Bus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Pebble Beach T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Roototop S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spree T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sticks 'n' Stones T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown on South Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: David Kozak and Lynda Pritchett, 1987
Page Views: 114 total · 1/month
Shared By: slim on Sep 30, 2005
Admins: Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Leo Paik, John McNamee

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Description [Edit]

This is a good route, it is probably seldom done.

This route is located far on the south side of Helen's Dome. Take the typical approach up the right side of the west face. This route isn't grouped with the "Fool's Gold" area routes. It is on a wall that is further to the right (south), past several huge, right-facing dihedrals. Keep heading right as the rock forces you. You will come to a nice, west facing wall with a massive flake on the right hand side. The left hand side of this wall has a nice boulder/ledge with a fair-sized tree on it. If you look at the face behind and to the fight of the tree, you will notice that it doesn't have the same homogenous texture that most of Helen's Dome has. This section of rock seems slightly more metamorphosed.

Brave Cowboy starts from the ledge, just slightly left of the tree. Climb straight up a gorgeous jet black water streak to a high first bolt. Continue straight up to another bolt with fairly consistent climbing. This is kind of runout, so be sure that your belayer is ready to keep you from cratering. After this, the climbing eases up and the rock allows natural protection. Follow the crack system up into a very nice, easy, right-facing flake to a comfortable ledge with bolts on the right side. Double rope rap to bottom, or continue up easy unknown pitch above (5.6?).

The first section of this climb is excellent face climbing. Probably doesn't get much traffic.

Protection [Edit]

6 draws/runners, and a light rack of stoppers to hand-sized pieces.

Photos

David Kozak
  5.10b PG13
David Kozak  
  5.10b PG13
I did the first ascent of this route with Lynda Pritchett around 1987 or so. I recall the crux being a mantle move. We did several other fun routes in this area at that time including Crashing Thunder, another good slab route. Lynda died December of 1998. Oct 27, 2011

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