Avg: 2.5 from 104 votes
|Type:||Sport, 800 ft (242 m), 6 pitches|
|Page Views:||20,055 total · 164/month|
|Shared By:||Mark Roth on Oct 3, 2010|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
P1. There is no crux really, it's just a little too steep for walking. About 5 bolts lead up to the right side of the start ledge. There is an anchor under the route Spree (near the tiny tree). This pitch is about 5.4 and is a better approach, than the hike around the left side, for the routes that start on the ledge.... As of now, this is the only pitch that I have climbed. I didn't know that this was Fractured Fairytales. I look forward to finishing the route...
The rest of the pitches described by Dan 60D5H411:
P2: Traverse right, following the bolt line as it moves towards a small arete and one final step right to a set of anchors above boulders.
P3: Move right towards the pines and a black, water-worn slab. This pitch has a few bolts but requires a little bit of natural gear (small cams, nuts) to reduce the runout. Belay at a 2 bolt anchor on the face.
P4: Work your way up the slab to the right of the large dihedral, passing a small roof higher up. Belay at bolts next to a nice ledge.
P5: Head up left aiming for the fun looking arete and another long slab above. Belay at a two-bolt anchor on the face (if you have a 70m and gear, you can stretch it for a few more bolts and belay on a ledge up the to left.)
P6: Move right towards a crack and a bolt line above that angles up right towards the top of the dome. Again, there is a two bolt anchor on the left, but we stretched our 70m and aimed for the top of the dome. There are almost no gear placements at the top, but you can hunker down in one of the giant potholes on top to belay your second up.
Per Harry Dorcy: the bolt count, plus cam(s), wire(s) for missing hanger(s), and piton:
P1: 6 bolts, 2-bolt anchor.
P2: 8 bolts, 2-bolt anchor.
P3: 3 bolts, 2-bolt anchor (+ 1 piton)*.
P4: 5 bolts, 2-bolt anchor (+ 1 hanger-less bolt).
P5: 5 bolts, 2-bolt anchor (+ 1 hanger-less bolt).
P6: 4 bolts, 2-bolt anchor (+ 1 bolt above the anchor for top-out).