Avg: 2.4 from 58 votes
|Type:||Sport, 800 ft, 6 pitches|
|Page Views:||12,288 total · 138/month|
|Shared By:||Mark Roth on Oct 3, 2010|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionFractured Fairytales (AKA: The Date climb) is a great introduction to S. Platte slab climbing. I can't think of an easier route that is this enjoyable. Whether climbing this as your first long slab climbing adventure, or just using it as a fast way to access Acid Rock, you can't argue how fun it is to cover that much ground on beautiful stone. Modern bolts and bolted belays remove that sense of terror that is commonly associated with "old school" S. Platte slab routes. Some of the run-outs my still feel spicy to the beginner leader, but you are probably more likely to be killed getting lost in the boulder fields on the walk off.
P1. There is no crux really, it's just a little too steep for walking. About 5 bolts lead up to the right side of the start ledge. There is an anchor under the route Spree (near the tiny tree). This pitch is about 5.4 and is a better approach, than the hike around the left side, for the routes that start on the ledge.... As of now, this is the only pitch that I have climbed. I didn't know that this was Fractured Fairytales. I look forward to finishing the route...
The rest of the pitches described by Dan G0D5H411:
P2: Traverse right, following the bolt line as it moves towards a small arete and one final step right to a set of anchors above boulders.
P3: Move right towards the pines and a black, water-worn slab. This pitch has a few bolts but requires a little bit of natural gear (small cams, nuts) to reduce the runout. Belay at a 2 bolt anchor on the face.
P4: Work your way up the slab to the right of the large dihedral, passing a small roof higher up. Belay at bolts next to a nice ledge.
P5: Head up left aiming for the fun looking arete and another long slab above. Belay at a two-bolt anchor on the face (if you have a 70m and gear, you can stretch it for a few more bolts and belay on a ledge up the to left.)
P6: Move right towards a crack and a bolt line above that angles up right towards the top of the dome. Again, there is a two bolt anchor on the left, but we stretched our 70m and aimed for the top of the dome. There are almost no gear placements at the top, but you can hunker down in one of the giant potholes on top to belay your second up.
LocationFollow cairns up to the low point of the slab directly under the start ledge for Face Value and the others....
ProtectionShould be all bolted with bolted anchors. Bring a few wired nuts to slip over studs that might be missing hangers. The first pitch anchor is a good way to get down from the ledge, where other routes start in case of bad weather (since the walk off slab to the left would be dangerous while wet).
Per Harry Dorcy: the bolt count, plus cam(s), wire(s) for missing hanger(s), and piton:
P1: 6 bolts, 2-bolt anchor.
P2: 8 bolts, 2-bolt anchor.
P3: 3 bolts, 2-bolt anchor (+ 1 piton)*.
P4: 5 bolts, 2-bolt anchor (+ 1 hanger-less bolt).
P5: 5 bolts, 2-bolt anchor (+ 1 hanger-less bolt).
P6: 4 bolts, 2-bolt anchor (+ 1 bolt above the anchor for top-out).