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Routes in Helen's Dome

A Nice Top Rope TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
AWOL (aka Moss Toss) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beam Me Up, Scotty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Borderline Boulevard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brave Cowboy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Buffalo Soldier T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Buffalo Tears T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Electric Koolaid Acid Test T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Face Value T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fool's Gold T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fractured Fairytales S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gettin' the Groove S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
On the Bus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Pebble Beach T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Roototop S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spree T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sticks 'n' Stones T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown on South Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad
FA: Tom Mottinger, Don Green, 1971.
Page Views: 789 total, 4/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Tom and Don claim this as a first ascent having done it in July of 1971 when A.W.O.L. from the Army. The route follows a prominent crack on the west face of Helen's Dome. It is a mixed crack and face climb for two pitches. I used pitons for belay anchors in 1971, since all we had were nuts and pins in those days. After the second belay, the climb is 5th class to the top of the dome and a walk off the back side.

Protection

Mid to large hexes and bongs. We used pins for the belay anchors back then. (Ed. translation: Standard rack up to a #3 Camalot.)

Photos

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rob bauer
Golden, CO
 
rob bauer   Golden, CO
 
I climbed this many years ago and again after someone bolted it. My notes say 6 QDs and some nuts. This implies the bolts supplant the need for big stuff. FWIW Jun 26, 2007