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Routes in Helen's Dome
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Arete Already S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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AWOL (aka Moss Toss) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Beam Me Up, Scotty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Borderline Boulevard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Brave Cowboy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Buffalo Soldier T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Buffalo Tears T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Burning Love Letters S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Electric Koolaid Acid Test T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Face Value T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fire Escape T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Fool's Gold T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Fractured Fairytales S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gettin' the Groove S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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On the Bus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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One of Ours S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Pebble Beach T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X |
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Rode Hard and Put Up Wet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Roototop (P1-4) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Scatterbrain S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Slipaway S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Small Change T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Smoke Screen T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Spree T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sticks 'n' Stones T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Voodoo Ranger S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 160 ft (48 m) |
| FA: | Ken Trout, Dave Dunblazer, Alan Jolly and his girlfried, Kat, ~ 1983 or 84 |
| Page Views: | 5,059 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | slim on Sep 30, 2005 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is a damn fine route on the main west face of Helen's Dome.
Locate the route "Fool's Gold" using the directions listed for that route. Beam Me Up Scotty climbs the first half of Fool's Gold to the base of the right-leaning, shallow dihedral. Fool's Gold follows this dihedral to the right. Beam Me Up Scotty pulls straight up over the mini headwall on a couple crack jugs that provide gear opportunities. It then continues upwards on very nice continuous climbing. This section is bolt protected and the bolts get further apart the higher you go. They are good bolts though. There is a good 2 bolt anchor.
From the anchor, you can follow the primary two options to the top, or rap off. The two options are: a) Left hand, minor water groove, 5.7 slightly runout, b) Right hand, water groove, 5.9 R.
Locate the route "Fool's Gold" using the directions listed for that route. Beam Me Up Scotty climbs the first half of Fool's Gold to the base of the right-leaning, shallow dihedral. Fool's Gold follows this dihedral to the right. Beam Me Up Scotty pulls straight up over the mini headwall on a couple crack jugs that provide gear opportunities. It then continues upwards on very nice continuous climbing. This section is bolt protected and the bolts get further apart the higher you go. They are good bolts though. There is a good 2 bolt anchor.
From the anchor, you can follow the primary two options to the top, or rap off. The two options are: a) Left hand, minor water groove, 5.7 slightly runout, b) Right hand, water groove, 5.9 R.
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