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Routes in Helen's Dome

A Nice Top Rope TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
AWOL (aka Moss Toss) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beam Me Up, Scotty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Borderline Boulevard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brave Cowboy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Buffalo Soldier T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Buffalo Tears T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Electric Koolaid Acid Test T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Face Value T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fool's Gold T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fractured Fairytales S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gettin' the Groove S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
On the Bus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Pebble Beach T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Roototop S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spree T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sticks 'n' Stones T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown on South Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: Ken Trout, Dave Dunblazer, Alan Jolly and his girlfried, Kat, ~ 1983 or 84
Page Views: 3,203 total · 21/month
Shared By: slim on Sep 30, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a damn fine route on the main west face of Helen's Dome.

Locate the route "Fool's Gold" using the directions listed for that route. Beam Me Up Scotty climbs the first half of Fool's Gold to the base of the right-leaning, shallow dihedral. Fool's Gold follows this dihedral to the right. Beam Me Up Scotty pulls straight up over the mini headwall on a couple crack jugs that provide gear opportunities. It then continues upwards on very nice continuous climbing. This section is bolt protected and the bolts get further apart the higher you go. They are good bolts though. There is a good 2 bolt anchor.

From the anchor, you can follow the primary two options to the top, or rap off. The two options are: a) Left hand, minor water groove, 5.7 slightly runout, b) Right hand, water groove, 5.9 R.

Protection

8 to 10 quickdraws for bolts and anchors, a light rack of stoppers to thin hands cams.

Photos

Ken, if memory serves me correctly, there were about three or four others in on the "first ascent." Slackers like myself got a belay from Dave or Kathy after all the work was completed. I think that Paul Braun was another who participated in the party atmosphere that was Beam Me Up Scotty. I think the name was perhaps inspired by the long line of first ascensionists. Oct 18, 2011
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
FIRST ASCENT (About 1982): Ken Trout, Dave Dunblazer, Alan Jolly and his girlfried, Kat. We all learned how to drill on the lead with this route.

Actually it might have been '83 or '84. Oct 9, 2007

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