Type: Trad, 160 ft (48 m)
FA: Ken Trout, Dave Dunblazer, Alan Jolly and his girlfried, Kat, ~ 1983 or 84
Page Views: 4,259 total · 22/month
Shared By: slim on Sep 30, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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This is a damn fine route on the main west face of Helen's Dome.

Locate the route "Fool's Gold" using the directions listed for that route. Beam Me Up Scotty climbs the first half of Fool's Gold to the base of the right-leaning, shallow dihedral. Fool's Gold follows this dihedral to the right. Beam Me Up Scotty pulls straight up over the mini headwall on a couple crack jugs that provide gear opportunities. It then continues upwards on very nice continuous climbing. This section is bolt protected and the bolts get further apart the higher you go. They are good bolts though. There is a good 2 bolt anchor.

From the anchor, you can follow the primary two options to the top, or rap off. The two options are: a) Left hand, minor water groove, 5.7 slightly runout, b) Right hand, water groove, 5.9 R.


8 to 10 quickdraws for bolts and anchors, a light rack of stoppers to thin hands cams.