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Routes in Helen's Dome

A Nice Top Rope TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
AWOL (aka Moss Toss) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arete Already S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Beam Me Up, Scotty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Borderline Boulevard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brave Cowboy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Buffalo Soldier T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Buffalo Tears T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Electric Koolaid Acid Test T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Face Value T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fool's Gold T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fractured Fairytales S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gettin' the Groove S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
On the Bus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Pebble Beach T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Roototop S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spree T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sticks 'n' Stones T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown on South Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Voodoo Ranger S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, Sport, 150 ft
FA: Dave Dunblazier & Kathy
Page Views: 1,501 total · 9/month
Shared By: slim on Sep 30, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

To find this route, locate the directions for "Fool's Gold", listed on this site. Approximately 20 feet to the left is a line of bolts. This is the first line of bolts that you will see when going left from "Fool's Gold".

First bolt is pretty high, but supposedly somebody added it fairly recently. If that is indeed the case, the old first bolt was up in minor cratering territory.

Climb straight up the line of bolts with sustained climbing on superb small edges and flakes. Some of the bolts are kind of hard to see (the 2nd in particular), due to the color blending with the rock. The climbing is pretty sustained and the bolts are far apart, and getting further apart the higher you go.

Rap from double bolts with 2 ropes, or take a water groove to the top (5.7 to 5.9, sparse pro).

Protection

8 draws and a couple runners should do it. Not really a sport route, but doesn't require gear.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b R
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b R
If you liked this route, you might also enjoy the nearby "Buffalo Tears." Mar 23, 2007
brent pohlmann
San Francisco, CA
brent pohlmann   San Francisco, CA
Tony:
When you say "nearby", could you be more specific? Is it to the left of Buffalo Soldier? Any beta would be greatly appreciated. Jul 30, 2008
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b R
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b R
As I recall from years ago, it was adjascent or nearly so. But I didn't add it to the DB, becuase my memory was too vague on details. I think it is in the older guidebooks though. I climbed it with Gary Stettler in 1995 or 1996 and we thought the 2 routes were similar. I think Gary is still around and maybe you can locate him on this group? Jul 31, 2008

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