Avg: 3.6 from 18 votes
Routes in Helen's Dome
|A Nice Top Rope TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|AWOL (aka Moss Toss) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Beam Me Up, Scotty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Borderline Boulevard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Brave Cowboy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Buffalo Soldier T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Buffalo Tears T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Electric Koolaid Acid Test T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Face Value T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Fool's Gold T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Fractured Fairytales S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Gettin' the Groove S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|On the Bus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Pebble Beach T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X|
|Roototop S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Spree T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Sticks 'n' Stones T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Unknown on South Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Dave Bell, Chris Bell, Byron Nelson|
|Page Views:||3,351 total, 17/month|
|Shared By:||Derek Lawrence on Jun 23, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionStart off the ramp about 30 feet left of the large squeeze/dihedral (Face Value) on the west side of Helen's.
Pitch 1: Head up the face past a bolt to a finger crack. Place pro and head up the face to the right-leaning crack system. Traverse right across the face to the next crack (make sure to place pro immed. After the face to protect your second from swinging big). Head right on easy ground to the 2-bolt anchor. An alternate 5.10 start goes up the crack (small gear) between the above start and "Face Value" past 2 (3?) bolts to the crack that heads right to the belay.
Pitch 2: Head right off the belay, place pro with a long sling and go up and left to the first bolt. Follow the bolts up the face staying left of the water groove. The climbing is on great feldspar crystals which provide plenty of small foot/hand holds. The technical crux (5.9) comes somewhat early (hard to identify exactly), but the mental crux comes in the increasing runouts between bolts as the climbing gets easier. Be prepared for 20-30+ foot runouts past the last 3 bolts (5.6-5.8).
Rap the route with double ropes or head up left thru the notch and right to the top.