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Routes in Helen's Dome
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A Little Piece of Helen T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Arete Already S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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AWOL (aka Moss Toss) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Beam Me Up, Scotty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Big Jar of Honey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Borderline Boulevard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Brave Cowboy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Buffalo Soldier T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Burning Love Letters S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Contrived and Worthless S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Diamond Arete T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Diamond Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Diamond in the Rough T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Electric Koolaid Acid Test T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Face Value T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fire Escape T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Fool's Gold T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Fractured Fairytales S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gettin' the Groove S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Helen Highwater T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Helen Wheels T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Hitching Post/Ripple T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hokahey T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hoodoo Ranger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Knockin' On Helen's Door T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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No Values T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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On the Bus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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One of Ours S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Pebble Beach T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X |
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Rode Hard and Put Up Wet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Roototop (P1-4) S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Scatterbrain S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Slipaway S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Small Change T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Smoke Screen T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Spree T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sticks 'n' Stones T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Stockings on the Mantel T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Voodoo Ranger S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wave Bye Bye T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, Sport, 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 39.18947, -105.33724 |
| FA: | Dave Bell, Chris Bell, Byron Nelson |
| Page Views: | 5,699 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Derek Lawrence on Jun 23, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
Start off the ramp about 30 feet left of the large squeeze/dihedral (Face Value) on the west side of Helen's.
Pitch 1: head up the face past a bolt to a finger crack. Place pro and head up the face to the right-leaning crack system. Traverse right across the face to the next crack (make sure to place pro immediately after the face to protect your second from swinging big). Head right on easy ground to the 2 bolt anchor. An alternate 5.10 start goes up the crack (small gear) between the above start and "Face Value" past 2 (3?) bolts to the crack that heads right to the belay.
Alternatively per Graham Fillo: start on the ledge/ crack that angles up and to the right. After a few feet when the crack splits, continue up the right crack (5.10 small gear). Then pass 3 bolts that lead to the next crack which heads right to the belay. The bolted belay is way off to the right and will be clearly visible after passing the bolts.
The above description of P1 was once listed here as an alternate start. Ken Trout recently made a clarification that he made an error in his guidebook, and this "alternate start" is in fact the original start of this route. The standard start here: "head up the face past a bolt to a finger crack. Place pro, and head up the face to the right-leaning crack system" is actually the start of the rarely climbed Pebble Beach. There are several old photos and comments referring to the standard and alternate start. Just know anything pre-2026 will be inaccurate. Refer to the new start area topo for accurate information. Of course, you can still climb the Pebble Beach start variation if desired.
Pitch 2: head right off the belay, place pro with a long sling, and go up and left to the first bolt. Follow the bolts up the face staying left of the water groove. The climbing is on great feldspar crystals which provide plenty of small foot/hand holds. The technical crux (5.9) comes somewhat early (hard to identify exactly), but the mental crux comes in the increasing runouts between bolts as the climbing gets easier. Be prepared for 20-30+ foot runouts past the last 3 bolts (5.6-5.8).
Rap the route with double ropes or head up left through the notch and right to the top.
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