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Routes in Helen's Dome

A Nice Top Rope TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
AWOL (aka Moss Toss) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beam Me Up, Scotty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Borderline Boulevard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brave Cowboy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Buffalo Soldier T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Buffalo Tears T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Electric Koolaid Acid Test T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Face Value T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fool's Gold T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fractured Fairytales S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gettin' the Groove S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
On the Bus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Pebble Beach T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Roototop S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spree T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sticks 'n' Stones T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown on South Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Sport, 2 pitches
FA: Dave Bell, Chris Bell, Byron Nelson
Page Views: 3,351 total, 17/month
Shared By: Derek Lawrence on Jun 23, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

18 Opinions

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Start off the ramp about 30 feet left of the large squeeze/dihedral (Face Value) on the west side of Helen's.

Pitch 1: Head up the face past a bolt to a finger crack. Place pro and head up the face to the right-leaning crack system. Traverse right across the face to the next crack (make sure to place pro immed. After the face to protect your second from swinging big). Head right on easy ground to the 2-bolt anchor. An alternate 5.10 start goes up the crack (small gear) between the above start and "Face Value" past 2 (3?) bolts to the crack that heads right to the belay.

Pitch 2: Head right off the belay, place pro with a long sling and go up and left to the first bolt. Follow the bolts up the face staying left of the water groove. The climbing is on great feldspar crystals which provide plenty of small foot/hand holds. The technical crux (5.9) comes somewhat early (hard to identify exactly), but the mental crux comes in the increasing runouts between bolts as the climbing gets easier. Be prepared for 20-30+ foot runouts past the last 3 bolts (5.6-5.8).

Rap the route with double ropes or head up left thru the notch and right to the top.


Pro: 10-12 quickdraws and a light rack of small/medium wires/TCUs and cams/hexes to 3". (Take a few longer runners for the 1st pitch.) Fixe rap anchors at both belays.
Cindy Mitchell
Cindy Mitchell  
I've led both the regular start and the alternate start of this route, and I agree the alternate start is a bit harder (10a). The 2nd pitch goes on FOREVER, it seems. A real calf/toe burner. Even though it's more vertical than Face Value, the holds are bigger. We climbed the route with double ropes and didn't have any rope drag issues. 10 QDs and a big nut with a long sling for the first move off the belay. Oct 4, 2010
rob bauer
Golden, CO
rob bauer   Golden, CO
Just a quick note for us old timers who use Hubbel's book, 10 QD is about right now since several bolts were added to the 2nd pitch. (I think Hubbel showed 5 and I used to to bring 7 for the pitch and anchors.) May 31, 2006
Darin Lang
Darin Lang  
The alternate start (straight up the crack next to the 5.7 dihedral route) is quite good, and at a similar level of difficulty as the even better second pitch. Bring a few thin hands to hands pieces, and some stoppers. May 23, 2004