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Routes in Helen's Dome

A Nice Top Rope TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
AWOL (aka Moss Toss) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beam Me Up, Scotty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Borderline Boulevard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brave Cowboy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Buffalo Soldier T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Buffalo Tears T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Electric Koolaid Acid Test T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Face Value T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fool's Gold T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fractured Fairytales S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gettin' the Groove S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
On the Bus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Pebble Beach T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Roototop S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spree T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sticks 'n' Stones T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown on South Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 160 ft
FA: Dave Dunblazier, ~1984
Page Views: 1,198 total, 8/month
Shared By: slim on Sep 30, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is not a very independent route, but the climbing is excellent.

Find the directions for "Fool's Gold", listed on this site. Pebble Beach climbs the first half to the right-leaning dihedral. Pull straight up over the headwall on good jugs that afford good pro. Then head almost straight left. Ken Trout's old rock and ice guide from '86 says "Dave says there is a nut placement out there somewhere". [It's] true. Too bad it is only about 8 feet from your previous placement. You can't really see it until you are almost on top of it. From there, punch it straight up to the "Beam Me Up Scotty" anchors, or up and left to the anchors for "Buffalo Soldier". you can TR it pretty easily from the "... Scotty" anchors.

From here, you can rap with 2 ropes, or take one of the upper pitches to the top (5.7 to 5.9, scarce pro).

Protection

Couple quickdraws, runners, light rack from stoppers to thin hands cams.

Photos

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Ken Trout
Golden, CO
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
Actually, Dave Dunblazer led this with Kat as a 5.10X, not TR, about 1984. Dave used the first two bolts on Scotty Beam Me Up, then went up left, past a seam that took a smaller wire and all the way up to the Scotty anchor, without using anymore bolts.

It is more common to top rope this from the Scotty anchor. Jun 29, 2009