Sticks 'n' Stones
Avg: 3.1 from 14 votes
Routes in Helen's Dome
|A Nice Top Rope TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|AWOL (aka Moss Toss) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Beam Me Up, Scotty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Borderline Boulevard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Brave Cowboy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Buffalo Soldier T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Buffalo Tears T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Electric Koolaid Acid Test T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Face Value T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Fool's Gold T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Fractured Fairytales S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Gettin' the Groove S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|On the Bus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Pebble Beach T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X|
|Roototop S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Spree T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Sticks 'n' Stones T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Unknown on South Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Type:||Trad, 7 pitches|
|FA:||P1-4: Mabe/Juth, P5-7: Mabe/Hubbel, summer 2005|
|Page Views:||3,942 total, 30/month|
|Shared By:||Darren Mabe on Feb 28, 2007|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionWhile either can break your bones, Sticks 'n' Stones is a dual personality route -- part bolted slab, part trad. The "Sticks" part climbs the right side of Helen's, in 4 slab pitches, and continues to the "Stones" part, which actually climbs the right side of Acid in 3 trad pitches. It may seem annoying to drag all that gear up the first half, but it is well worth it for the rest of it. Especially the surprise ending...an overhanging thin hands V-slot; an excellent 5.10+ pitch on an otherwise moderate route. You might be able to avoid it, however, by traversing off to a gully (some loose rock).
This route was established on lead, onsight, and free drilling stances.
P1. Start just right of the big ledge. An ascending, leftward traverse along excellent intrusion features. Belay at a 2 bolt anchor on a small ramp, (5.8) 75', 7 bolts.
P2. Steep, slab moves lead up and over a small overlap. Work up the slab to a large hueco you can stand in, and follow the worn water runnel to a ramp belay at the start of a right-facing dihedral, (5.7) 120', 9 bolts.
P3. Follow the dihedral to a point where you commit to an exciting step around. Continue on well featured edges to an 'oasis' belay ledge. The difficulty here drops considerably. (5.6) 165', 8 bolts.
P4: no bolts. From the oasis, continue up and left around the corner to the top of Helen's, belay from gear (#2 Camalot suffices), (5.4) approximately 100', no bolts!
Now, the hike. Go across Helen's summit slabs and work your way up the saddle to Acid rock. On the far right side of Acid, right of the large corner (this is the large, right-facing corner of the raps of the Unknown and Divine Miss M), is a series of low-angled dihedrals and flakes. The "stones" part of the route....
P5. Get yer rack out. Climb the connecting right-facing overlaps and corners until they disappear. Double up your last piece and commit to the face (5.9) up to a bolt, then fire up more slab to a nice belay ledge, 120'.
P6. Climb the bulge right off the belay via thin hands flake, slightly dicey move leaving the crack and working into a long and wide right facing layback corner. Exit the dihedral to the left to a good belay ledge. Small TCU placement and single bolt for a belay, (5.7) 115'.
P7. This is interesting and exciting! Although there is a crumby lookin' wide crack above, I opted for the seam traverse straight right and around the corner. At the top of this corner, move back left to the overhanging thin hands tight V-slot #0.75-1 Camalots. Watch for drag on this pitch. -OR- it may be possible to avoid the v-slot finish by traversing right onto easier though severely decomposed and broken terrain to a gully and Acid summit.
Descent: boogey to the Acid/Helen's descent trail. Or for full value, continue to Velcro Wall, and summit Sheeprock, for over 1000' of climbing fun. Allow for a full day due to all the adventure hiking and descent logistics.