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Routes in Helen's Dome

A Nice Top Rope TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
AWOL (aka Moss Toss) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arete Already S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Beam Me Up, Scotty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Borderline Boulevard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brave Cowboy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Buffalo Soldier T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Buffalo Tears T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Electric Koolaid Acid Test T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Face Value T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fool's Gold T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fractured Fairytales S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gettin' the Groove S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
On the Bus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Pebble Beach T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Roototop S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spree T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sticks 'n' Stones T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown on South Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Voodoo Ranger S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dave Bell, Byron Nelson, & Chris Bell?
Page Views: 2,461 total · 13/month
Shared By: David Wise on Apr 22, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

This is a beautiful dihedral to good-ole South Platte slab climbing. You have your choice of evils for the start--awkward offwith or an awkward flared handcrack.

Rap from a decent rap station after pitch 1, or wander on for 1 more pitch of slab climbing to rap from Fool's Gold.

Approach as for all other Helen's Dome SW face routes, Face Value is the first decent looking right-facing dihedral just to the right of Fool's Gold.

Protection

Miscellaneous gear to 3". Typical runout S. Platte slab with old bolts on pitch 2. 2 bolt rap station with slings and rap ring after 1st pitch.
Monty
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
Did this route today. This first pitch is great, a brief crux in the start then sustained 5.7 joy. The second pitch is well protected where you truey need it. Highly recommend it. May 10, 2006
Bjorn
WNC
Bjorn   WNC
Had a blast on this route a few days ago before winter arrived. One thing I'd like to note is that you can do this route and get off it with a single 70m rope with one significant footnote. The first rappel down is slightly incomplete with a 70m. The rappel gets you to a bomber ledge but not to the bolts. I had to go off rappel and walk over to the bolts whilst connected to nothing. My girlfriend did the same, mindful to secure one side of the rope to herself before going off rappel and doing the unprotected scramble over to me.
This stunt was pretty relaxed due to the low angle terrain and bomber jug flake right there for your "security." Again, nothing scary, though this manoeuver is definitely "against the rules" to most safety-conscious climbers. Oct 12, 2009
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
First ascent, Dave Bell and I believe his brother Chris, and Byron Nelson. I found some slides the other night from a mass ascent by drunken Colorado College students in the early eighties. Perhaps I'll put a few up, as several of those students lurk around here. Nov 16, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Yep, rapping on a 70m is just fine. Makes it with a meter or two to spare to the flake, then a meter or two extra on the ramp system at the base as well. An 80m would almost reach the bolt anchor, but as has been said, it's not sketch to go off and walk over. Nov 21, 2016

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